Drinking in the South Hams
Great to back to our annual ritual of an Easter trip down to deepest Devon and the very lovely South Hams area – unable to visit for the last couple of years due to Covid – we plashed out a bit and booked a very nice apartment just across the road from the Salcombe Hotel with a stunning balcony and many windowed lounge looking directly over the water.
The 1st find of this trip was a very interesting little book in the apartment’s pile of local guides and leaflets; “The Pubs of Devon”, a very interesting read, written in 1975 and costing the grad price of 60p full of mentions about Worthington E, Double Diamond and draught Bass. Very little mention of any locally brewed beers – though local draught cider mentions – most pubs are listed as being Bass Charrington, Watney Mann, Courage or Free Houses – Heavitree and Devenish mentioned a few times as well.
I had not heard of Heavitree Beers– bit of internet research throws up Heavitree Brewery owns over 60 pubs concentrated mainly in the Exeter and South Devon area. The brewery was established on 1790 in the Heavitree area of Exeter, looks like they expanded quite rapidly buying other Exeter breweriesThe Finch Eagle Brewery in 1892 and the Windsor Brewery in 1899, in 1920 Pinsent’s Brewery in Newton Abbot, they ceased brewing operations in May 1970 and became entirely focused on managing the tenanted pubs estate.
The Devenish group followed a similar history, initially a brewery established in 1742 in Weymouth, buying out a number of breweries in the early 20th century, brewing was moved to the Redruth Brewery in the 80’s and was completely stopped on 1991, by then they had over 550 tied houses in the South West but were bought put by Greenall Whitley in 1993. (They in turn were bought out by Scottish & Newcastle in 1999)
A Salcombe Pub Crawl
At the end of the 20th century Salcombe was still little known, it had after long discussion amongst the local councils and gentry been left out of the expanding rail network – the nearest rail station being in Kingsbridge – in the early 1900 water was still the best way of getting to and from Salcombe, significant ship building was done in the town with 5 shipwrights and two coopers making barrels for use at sea.
In the second world war the areas as an important based for US forces and played an important part in the preparations for D Day – particularly nearby Slapton Sands and at the end of the War it became a favourite haunt of retiring Naval officers – used their pensions to purchase land and houses and put their yachts in the harbour.
It can a time become a little Kensington by the sea and there are lots of range rovers and people wearing life jackets (but don’t appear to get on any boats) – we are regular visitors but tend to go at Easter when it doesn’t get too busy.
The Victoria Inn– The pub has had at last four different name sin its recorded 400 years of existence Howells Inn, George the Third, The Turks Head and finally the Victoria (though a book again in the apartment written by a former landlord in 1979 Bill Burner – reports that it was known locally as the Burners in the 70’s) The Booklet explains that it was Bill’s father John Alfred Burner that took on the pubs lease from a Captain Forbes, the Burner family had also run pubs nearby Sloop at Batham and the Ebb Tide at Aveton Gifford
(see the old photo above)
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| The Offer at the Vic |
St Austell runs over 180 pubs from the Isles of Scilly to Bristol, St Austell Brewery was founded in 1851 by Cornishman, Walter Hicks – a wine merchant and maltster. He began brewing at the Seven Stars Inn in St Austell – his first pub. The oldest arm of our family-owned business, St Austell Wines was Hicks' first endeavor. A new crafty arm the Small Batch Brewery (which launched in 2016) is designed to allow the highly skilled brewing team to keep experimenting with new flavours and globally inspired beer styles. A series of exciting Small Batch Brews are rolled out to select pubs across the South West throughout the year, as well as limited-edition seasonal specials.
I tried the Mosaic a single Hop Pale ALE (4.3%) a couple of time sand there are some interesting other craft style beers now available I'm on the look out for a bottle of Tamar Creek (a Barrel aged Cherry fruited sour 5.1%) as well In 2016 they also took over Bath Ales and started investing in a new state-of-the-art brewery, Hare Brewery, which opened its doors in May 2018. addition to its beer portfolio, Bath Ales also has a collection of nine pubs
Almost directly across from the Vic is the Kings Arms – the pub I have probably drank the most in as the pub has two restaurant areas at the back which means the front bar stays pretty much as a drinking area and so always seems to have more space – normally at least three cask ales on though Doom Bar this time Salcombe Gold and Salcombe Life Saver was the offer.
The pub had new landlords and a big revamp in 2019 – the attached Boatswain Bistro has a nice raised terrace which overlooks the water of the weather is nice – big canopied area runs down the side of the pub and bistro- we managed to get a seat at the bar – the bistro was still very busy – not had the Lifesaver so had a pint of that – a very nice straight up bitter.
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| Beer Garden at The Fort |
The Ferry Inn A Grade 2 listed building dating from 1749, that is a Palmers Brewery house on the Ferry Steps – Palmers in Bridport a fantastic brewery got to know it well as it sits alongside the riverside walk between holiday resort of West Bay and the market town of Bridport. Brewing since 1794 they are listed as one of our oldest breweries and claim to be the The only thatched brewery in the UK. Very regional tend not to find their beers outside of the South west. Still family owned, indeed a number of Palmer’s still undertake most of the senior roles at the brewery. They run just over 40 of their own pubs – all in Dorset, Devon and a handful in Somerset.
On offer for this visit – Cask Copper – Palmer’s website description; “A session ale that blends fruity malt flavours with the freshness of Kent Goldings and First Gold hops. A rich copper coloured ale that's full of flavour. The Head Brewer’s drink of choice.”
Dorset Gold - Dorset Gold is a stunning golden ale full of freshness. Less hoppy, thirst quenching and zesty.
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| Tally Ho! |
The Salcombe Gin Distillery down by the creek is worth a visit and they do sell Salcombe beer in cans – a tad expensive but a lovely building with views across the creek and a smallish outdoor balcony if the weather is nice – the gin is quite good as well.
Salcombe Brewery – not had chance to visit yet its tucked away down a lane just north of Kingsbridge near the village of Ledstone – housed in what was a underground water reservoir which apparently makes a great place to make and store beer – there was a very good article in the Western Morning News recently that tells the story of a brewery on its last legs when a the now owner retired to Devon – went to the pub and enjoyed a few very good pints of Sea Horse but was told that would be the pubs last barrel as the brewery was going bust – the day after he bought it and has expanded the brewery 2 or 3 ties over the last few years due to demand. There is a shop at the brewery and a tap room but looks like you ca only sample if you do a brewery tour.
Prawn Juice anyone?
If you fancy a bit of a novelty – the Winking Prawn beach shack restaurant literally on the North Sands beach offer its own branded beer – Prawn Juice in bottle brewed by the South Hams brewery. It’s a drinkable 4% Pale – Untapped describe it as A refreshing, light and gold hoppy session beer - using good old otter malt with plenty of fruitiness in the palette. South Hams beers are found throughout the area – a small craft brewer based in Stokenham, close to the stunning Start Bay Multi award-winning brewery, a family concern producing real ales of consistent high quality with an ever-evolving range for all tastes! My particular fave is their Wild Blonde
Other pubs sampled in the Salcombe area
Ashburton a very ancient and attractive town just off the A38 and close to Buckfast Abbey – well worth a visit a number of interesting pubs, a fantastic range of independent shops, with some very good food shops and a well stocked an competitively priced independent wine and bottle shop.
I picked up 2 cracking local beers – for around £2:50 a bottle – very good for two 6% plus beers
The town is one of Devon’s four Stannery towns – tin- towns and was grated a charter in 1285 by Edward 1.
Had a quick nose in the Hound of the Baskervilles – busy with coffee and cake – but my main focus was the Exeter Inn – had seen picture of cask barrel behind the bar and the strap-line as one of the oldest pubs in the world
Old Exeter InnMost of the current building straight on the ‘high street – which is West Street is 17th Century and characteristically black and white timbers – parts of the pub date back to 1150 – hence its claim to be one of the oldest pubs in the world. The Alka- Seltzer guide to the Pubs of Devon reports that the Baron’s Court and Court eat were held during the 18th Century and a blue plaque on the outside wall reports that Sir Walter Raleigh was arrested at the pub in 1603 before being taken toe the Tower of London. The Alka-Seltzer guide also adds that up until the 1920’s horses were brought through the pub to the stables at the rear.
Kingsbridge – a very pleasant market town and acts as a bit of a hub for the South Hams area – a very steep high street – but one lined with mainly independent shops – couple of supermarkets on the outskirts that always seem to stock a good range of South west beers
Creeks End – probably the one I have visited most on my trips to the area. Handily situated next to Kingsbridge’s main carpark beside the quayside and next to a very nice modern market place. Always a steady flow of punters – lots of outdoor seating when the weather is good- always a gang of locals on mobility scooters enjoying a couple of cask (often an Abbot) and macro keg offering. A bit more of a café inside rather than a pub.
Crabshell Inn on the road east of the town and right beside the water – if the sun is shining a great place to sit on the outdoor terrace watching the ducks and people falling off stand up paddle boards. Bit of a foody spot but usually a good range of cask Salcombe and or South Hams ales on offer. A couple of reviews on Beer in the evening suggest this place s is a bit too swanky for most – but I would say while worth a visit what ever your swankiness.
Seven Stars – gets consistently good reviews but think I’ve only been in once – a little tucked away across the road from the Creeks end, a nice beer garden that is just about opposite the Co-op store and garage. A couple of cask on offer tough Doom bar seems to be the permanent offer.
What Pub also lists the following selection of pubs in Kingsbridge – though, to be honest I haven’t payed them a visit – Hermitage on Mill street all the review suggest this a solid local boozer. The King of Prussia (Great name – quite a few pubs in the south west have this name – though apparently a lot changed their name during the 1st World War, from what I can gather many are named after a smuggler rather than a real king the one in Fowey is named after the renowned smuggler John Carter who was known as the King of Prussia (Cove) This pub on Church Street is again reviewed as a solid locals boozer. The Regal Bar housed in the former Regal Cinema looks to have lots of event. And advertises as having 2 pool tables and a full size snooker table. The Dodbrooke Inn also on Church Street, looks interesting a 200 year old building with a longstanding licensee and holds regular beer festival -definitely one I’m going to try n my next visit.
Other Pubs well worth a visit elsewhere in South Hams
Journey’s End at Ringmore
Another ancient pub in deepest Devon – i.e. down some very narrow lanes – Tesco delivery vans large caravan park at Challaborough – previously named the Church Inn like most Devon village s- a place where workers were put up during the building of magnificent churches- often wonder how many parishioners they served – The first mention of the actual pub is in 1685 – when it is mentioned in church documents has being a ‘house of good order with no cards or dice to be sued – but the building itself probably dates back to the 1300’s, originally a Church House and then the New Inn. In 1763 records show that the Long Room was used as a meeting place for the local council – there is also story of a secret room behind a false wall where smugglers are said to have hidden their contraband (again a tale of a many a Devon pub).
Its current name the Journey’s End got its name from play by RC Sheriff which he is said to have written whist staying at the pub in 1928. The play is autobiographical and based on Sherrif’s experiences as a young army captain on the Western Front in world war 1. A poster/Programme for the New York of the play is on wall in the main bar.
The Pilchard Inn, Burgh Island – yet another ancient Devon pub this time dating back to 1336, only part is now open t the public the rear section is used as a ‘traditional’ restaurant for the adjacent very famous art deco Burgh Island hotel. Be prepared to sup our pint in a stunning location – but also need to get your timing right – at low tide it’s a 5 minute walk across the sand spit when the tides in its either a kayak or a ride on the sea tractor – a couple of quid a go but Hotel guests get priority so it can mean a weight – best on a good day as there is only a small public bar and limited indoor seating – there are some nice benches outside next to the slip way – I've normally been able to drink Otter or Salcombe beers – they were doing a Glass deposit/purchase for outdoor drinking -they are quite nice glasses (but plastic)
Dartmouth – a busy seaside port and town not surprisingly has a number of pubs and restaurants to choose from (would recommend Mitch Tonks Rock Fish on the waterside – do serve a good range of Salcombe beers in cans) – the ones I most regularly visited are the The Dolphin – just across the road from the wonderful old market (the car park opposite is small but free – parking can be a problem in Dartmouth) – you can tell you are by the seaside in this pub but it’s a lovely old building with at least 2 or 3 cask beers on – often St Austell. The Royal Castle Hotel dominate the man part of the town by the inner quay – two bars the one on the left is a little clubby and don’t let children in the one on the left is more traditional – recently taken over by st Austells, so expect their beers. The Cherub is worth seeking out – a fantastic old timbered building – 14th century and you can well imagine smugglers and seek captains supping side by side here over the centuries - usually load of hand pumps on.
This time I also visited the Bayards Cove Inn – tucked away just round the corner from the lower ferry – mainly food focussed, another very old building with some nice seats just outside on the pavement where we managed to get a table – two cask beers on offer – I had a very nice Bays Topsail which was a new beer for me – Bays are based in Torquay just round the coast – had one of there Devon Dumpling Golden ales in Newton Abbot Spoons(The Richard Hopkins – a better Spoons than most) on the way home which was also very good.
Mill Brook Inn
Down in sleepy Southpool, recently named as the most beautiful in the UK and Ireland by Conde Nast Traveler magazine. The pub Situated half way down the main street in this picturesque village, most of this 17th-century pub's trade in the summer comes from walkers and boaters using the tidal South Pool Creek. (in the summer it gets busy around high tide when all the yachties come across from Salcombe) The courtyard is covered by a canopy and has regular music and BBQ's , there is a very nice rear
terrace beside the stream. Re-opened on 29th July 2020 and again more recently after a fairly big refurb The house beer is IPA from Red Rock Brewery had the joy of staying in the village for a week a couple of years ago – 2 doors down from the pub in the old village blacks smiths. Ask about the single street light on the bridge at the bottom of the village over the steam and its link to the pub.
Star Bay Inn - Start is derived from the Old English word ‘Steort’ meaning a tail or promontory. A Thatched pub – with even a thatched pub sign. The inn dates back to the 14th century, when it was known as the Fisherman's Arms. Family run for 40 years and well known for fish and chips – its quite a large indoor areas the lounge on the right (from the beach side) is more Loungey – the left hand side a bit more rough and ready – if weather nice you can enjoy your pint sitting on the Beach wall
Normally have Proper Job, a guest ale and their own Start Bay Bitter which I understand is brewed by the Otter Brewery in Honiton
Slapton - another sleepy village just inland from Slapton sand and the very bucolic Slapton Ley - this small village has tow pubs both worth a visit - The Tower Inn and the Queens Arms - both are big on food and get busy with locals and visitors in the summer months. The Tower is tucked away - wouldn’t recommend trying to get into the car park through the (use the one on the entrance into the village and walk in you can pass the house overlooking the Church where Michael Morpurgo wrote a few odf his books) - the Tower is a little more gastro pubby but very atmospheric especially at dusk with the medieval tower next door - which unfortunately you cant explore. The Queen’s is a bit more of a locals pub - with a friendly scrum at the bar - both have a good range of local beers on the bar.
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| Tower Inn |
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| Queens Arms |
