A Wild Atlantic Pub Crawl - A tale of 4 Counties and 6 pubs
 |
| Slaint |
A recent motorhome journey along the Wild Atlantic Way provided an excellent opportunity to visit outstanding Irish pubs and enjoy quality pints of stout. This trip continued my ongoing commitment to supporting the pub industry by seeking out new venues, as I have now completed similar excursions three times within the past year. It was remarkable to discover exceptional establishments even in areas such as Killarney, which I had previously visited numerous times.
Given the wide range of options throughout this region, I have decided to highlight just six pubs for consideration. Some of these are regular favourites to which I feel a particular attachment; however, if you find yourself traveling in this part of Ireland, I can confidently recommend these six pubs.
1. County Sligo
Thomas Connolly Tea, Wine and Spirit Merchant, Markievicz Rd. & Holborn St.
Thomas Connolly Bar is reputedly the oldest traditional public house in Sligo town, with a rich history dating back to 1780. Located in the heart of Sligo along the Garavogue River, it was first officially licensed in 1861 and remains celebrated as a hallmark of authentic Irish pub culture. It is widely considered by locals and visitors to serve the best-tasting pint of Guinness in Sligo. There's a great account of Connolly's in the book ‘The Irish Pub’, by James Fennell and Turtle Bunbury.
Thomas Connolly's storied past includes at least one visit from Charles Stewart Parnell during the pub's early days, plus Thomas Connolly himself becoming Mayor of Sligo in 1890 (the same year he acquired the premises).
The pub was established during a time of plentiful maritime trade; deliveries of rope, linen and tea came into Sligo on ships from all over Europe. A grocer’s shop was located at one end of the pub, popular for selling tea, sugar and bottling whiskey.
The establishment has earned major national acclaim, including being named the All Ireland Pub of the Year 2023 by the Irish Restaurant Awards and the Traditional Pub of the Year 2024 by Georgina Campbell's Ireland Guide. It is also highlighted by Lonely Planet as one of the top 20 pubs to visit across all of Ireland. It is widely considered by locals and visitors to serve the best-tasting pint of Guinness in Sligo.
This atmospheric pub sits on a busy Sligo corner near the bus stops, featuring dark interiors and several enclosed snugs. When we arrived on a Friday afternoon, the bartender initially seemed annoyed but became courteous and efficient when taking our order. The pints of stout were worth trying, and we ended up having a few more. While it's hard to gauge how popular this place gets, it had a steady flow of customers during our visit in late May.
2. County Mayo (Part 1)
Nevins Newfield Inn
A pub that truly offers something for everyone—accommodation, an award-winning restaurant, delicious breakfasts, excellent pints, robot waiters, and even a Motor Home Aire—all set in the wilds of County Mayo with stunning views overlooking Clew Bay, Croagh Patrick in the distance, and the impressive but brooding Nephin mountain range as a spectacular backdrop.
Established in 1863 by Dinny Sweeney as a pub and shop, Current man in charge John Nevin has transformed the premises, situated on the main N59 road between Newport and Mulranny, which his parents bought from the late Paddy Gibbons in 1971.
In a local newspaper report John Nevin explained how the family took on the pub in the 70’s "My parents - Patrick, a native of Achill, and Mary, from Belmullet - had returned from Scotland. They bought the premises from the late Paddy Gibbons. At that time it was a bar and shop selling animal feed stuffs. After taking over they added on a few bedrooms and were doing B&B.
"There were nine of us in family and the business brought us up. In 1975 we built the lounge. I probably started working here when I was 13. I was behind the bar serving customers.
“We’re out in the sticks really,” says publican John Nevin, with characteristic understatement. “Mulranny is about three and a half miles from us and Newport is six and a half. It’s a destination venue.”
A big advantage of Nevins is the motorhome camping area across the road; for just 20 euros a night, you get a good spot with water, electricity, and a view of Clew Bay, plus the pub right nearby. We only shared the space with one other van, even during Whit week, although in Ireland their bank holiday falls a week later in June.
This is a spot we include in our tour itinerary every time we visit Ireland—I can strongly recommend their breakfast too. Despite its location, it gets busy and is very popular with golfers, so it's wise to book a table if you want to eat in the evening. There are various rooms and a large outdoor area where you can enjoy your drink. Our favourite is the traditional bar through the middle door—it’s not very big, so expect to share your table with locals and visitors. Everything seems to run like clockwork: efficient bar staff, robot-delivered food, and just a great place to unwind—usually our first stop of the week.
Nevin’s Newfield Inn which includes facilities such as b &b accommodation and useful for us, a camper van park which is visible to the front of the premises
3. County Galway
The Crane, Small Crane Square, Galway City
Galway’s pubs are central to its culture, not just nightlife venues. The atmosphere is very much built around “craic”—a mix of conversation, humour, music, and shared experience. Many of Galway’s pubs are historic, with long-standing links to storytelling and music tradition.
 |
| The Crane tucked away in Galway's West End |
The city by Irish standards has a young, student-driven population combined with tourists and festival visitors. It’s often described as a “7‑night‑a‑week” city for nightlife – it was certainly lively on the Sunday night we visited
The Crane is situated slightly away from the usual tourist hub near the Latin Quarter, across the bridge in Galway’s west end. This area remains vibrant with numerous pubs and bars, all exuding a somewhat bohemian atmosphere. On a warm Sunday afternoon, the streets were lined with patrons seated at outdoor tables, which appeared to dominate the thoroughfares. The clientele on this side of the river is notably more local, yet many beer and pub enthusiasts make a point to visit the Crane.
Lunchtime in The Crane
Originally as the West End Bar, this pub is situated on the corner of William Street West and the Small Crane. In the 1930s it was owned by Paddy and Angela (known as Alda) Smith who lived over the pub. They also owned the garage behind the pub, which Paddy managed. In 1978 Paddy Connors took over the lease and he changed the name to The Crane Bar after the Small Crane where it is situated. He opened the bar upstairs and started nightly music sessions, and the pub has become famous for the quality of traditional music that has been played there ever since.
The names does not refer to the bird but the mechanical cranes used in the city’s various markets. There were three cranes in market places in old Galway, all used to weigh potatoes and vegetables. One was in Eyre Square, one in Woodquay, and one, which was usually referred to as ‘The West Crane’, was in William Street West. The area is always marked on old maps as the Potato Market. It seems in the last century, this name evolved into the Small Crane. This regular market usually attracted farmers from the Rahoon and Barna/Furbo areas to come and sell their produce. If business was quiet, they would amuse themselves by competing to see who was the strongest, who could lift heavy sacks of potatoes the highest, etc. Obviously all of this activity was good for business in the pub.
Known for its vibrant music scene—a blend of traditional and contemporary tunes most nights and weekends—this part of Galway felt chic and bohemian, reminiscent of Soho in London. There are plenty of pubs, bars with street seating, small cafés, eateries, and a lively crowd, along with a few ale enthusiasts like us.
The pub even has its own dedicated poem, written by Tom French in 2016 and forms part of the Galway Poetry Trail, a series of 21 poems and writings that are dotted around the city on a literary trail, each reflective of their locations.
There is a plaque on one of the pub walls which celebrates this and displays the poem
THE CRANE BAR, GALWAY
Nobody has anything to say
to anybody else who is there.
Mid-afternoon. A handful of souls
pacing themselves, minding their business.
It is overcast and rain is promised
or it is horsing down in buckets.
A woman stands and announces —
‘I won’t go back to Limerick,
and nobody can make me’ —
then resumes her seat, her drink.
And we, in our silence, drink
to not going back and raise,
in our hearts, our glasses
to nobody being forced to go
anywhere they do not want to,
until peace reigns again
in the whole of The Crane Bar
and in The Little Crane.
The Last Straw (2018) by Tom French
We had tried to get here on a balmy Sunday night but the sheer weight of people both in and outside the pub proved a barrier to big to scale and with parched throats we ducked around the corner to Massimos (apparently named after the owners hamster)which according to its website the bar has grown into one of the city’s most stylish and energetic social hubs over two decades.
The Guinness was cool and quaffable, the bar staff efficient and the stone building meant its was a cool haven in the front window.
But we did return on the next day to find a more relaxed but still busy pub in the early afternoon. Again impressed by the welcoming and chatter staff despite a gang of Americans taking noisy residence on the bar stools by the bar - you know cheers style when there were delightful tables around this atmospheric pub.
4. County Kerry (Part 1)
The Laurels, Main Street, Killarney
Killarney is another pub lovers dream, perhaps the most touristy of the towns featured on this trip, you will get bored of counting the number of plush hotels and the constant thrum of coaches discouraging global tourists on to its streets. d. Famous for its location on the shores of Lough Leane and adjacent to Killarney National Park, it also acts as the starting point for the Ring of Kerry. The town boasts a population of about 15,000. Killarney has the highest concentration of hotel beds in Ireland outside of Dublin.
T’internet suggests that There are over 50 pubs and bars in Killarney and drilling down to just one is hard -my other closes choices em would be Jimmy Brian’s close to the railway station proudly decked out in Kerry colours and another sporting Mecca and reputedly the best stout in town, my other fave is Husseys a cracking traditional pub a little away from the main drag, classic from snug a very decent pint of Murphy’s served a great kiwi guy the son in law of the pubs owner and legendary landlady Geraldine Hussey, the great-granddaughter of the pub’s founders,
And while it might feel like it’s miles away from the crowds, you’ll be sipping a creamy pint here just five minutes’ walk from the centre. There’s no fanfare, no fluff just a family-run pub that’s been serving Killarney since 1870 and still doing it right.
Our search for new venues in town brought us first to Reidys, a place that truly stands apart from the traditional pub scene. Reidys is not merely a pub, but rather feels like an entire town under one roof. Wandering through its seemingly endless maze of rooms and courtyards, we discovered spaces decorated as old-fashioned sweet shops and workshops, each corner brimming with character and nostalgia. Unsurprisingly, this remarkable setting attracts a steady stream of patrons, and it’s almost always bustling with activity, making it a destination that could easily warrant an entire blog post of its own.
Reidy’s Killarney a pub cornucopia
One drink in here was enough and we were keen to find some tranquillity in what was a sunny and therefore very busy early evening in Killarney.
Whilst in the main centre of the town the Laurels seem to sit in a little world of its own, small seating area on the pavement outside a deep, cavernous bar with yet another classic from snug, this one paying homage to the Man Utd teams of the1980’s. Another family run pub now in its 4th generation of O Leary’s , The Laurels pub and restaurant, retains the old world feel of a great Irish pub.
The pubs website great story behind the pubs name
This is the story of a greyhound who bought fame and fortune to Thado Leary, a Killarney publican and sportsman. Thado was well-known in sporting circles as the owner of many good dogs and as a co-founder of the Killarney Race Course.
Around 1928, he approached Moss Lawlor, a friend and fellow breeder of greyhounds, for the use of a dog to service his bitch, Clicker Lass, Moss gave him the service of his best dog, The Loafer. The fee agreed was that Moss Lawlor would get the pick of whatever litter ensued.
Thado’s son, Con O’Leary, takes up the story, “Just after the litter was born, Moss Lawlor was on his way to Kenmare from Tralee and called in to see both my father and the litter. He chose the pup that was eventually to be called Kilbrean Boy. Later on that night, he called back to pick the pup.”
“Thado already had the pup in a box and put him into the boot of Moss Lawlor’s car. Moss drove home that night and put the pup into the shed. The next morning when he came out to feed him, he saw the dog and thought that for some reason reason he looked different to the ones he had chosen. He laughed and cursed himself for having one too many with his friend in Killarney.”
After winning many local stakes, Kilbrean Boy was sent to Wimbledon to be trained by Sydney Orton. Sydney, regarded as one of the all time greats among greyhound trainers and celebrated for the training of the legendary Mick The Miller, brought Kilbrean Boy to the winning of the West Ham Cup and Wimbledon Plate.
In 1930, Orton had the fortune to have trained three dogs who reached the final of the first ever Wimbledon ‘Laurels’ race. This was the richest prize to that date and, as the sports historian, Finbarr Slattery suggests, maybe the richest ever. The owner of the winning dog would receive £1,232 and a gold trophy worth £100.
The Kerryman newspaper said that “on his return they shouldered Thado through the town, lit bonfires and celebrated till early hours of the morning.”
Many years later, Con O’Leary took over the family business after his father’s death. To mark his father’s great achievement, he changed the name of the pub to “The Laurels“.
We had a great hour or so in the front snug creating our own craic. The Guinness was on good form. The Laurels enjoys a great reputation for its food. Home prepared food is served all day. A lot of the pubs reviews mention the positive and we.coming feel of this family run boozer and it certainly feels it a place that has been curated and loved by the 4 generations of O Learys running the pub – well worth picking out and while it is bang in the middle of the action in Killarney it’s feel like a little bit of an oasis to take time over a grand pint.
5. County Kerry (Part 2)
James Currans, Main Street, Dingle
Curran’s Shop Bar on Main Street is one of Dingle’s most historic and untouched establishments, having first opened its doors in 1871. For over 150 years, it has operated as a traditional "pub-cum-shop" where you can buy a pint of stout alongside general goods – mainly flat caps and socks now.
Upon the death of the original James Curran in 1907, the pub passed to his son John who managed the bar until his own death in 1926, when his widow Mary & their son James took over. In the event of James’ untimely death in 1940, Mary drafted in her other son Joe for help. Joe gradually took over all aspects of the pub’s business until Mary herself died in 1966, aged 91. When Joe died in 1990, the pub passed to his son James, who is the present owner. Consequently, the pub’s heritage and classic ‘untouched’ guise are all heavily linked to the Curran family’s ongoing patronage.
Curran’s is a pub that eschews modern marketing, offering an authentic escape from today’s hustle. Enjoy its distinctive pub atmosphere while James Curran, a true Kerry story teller, oversees the place.
This for me is a must visit pub when I cross the Irish Sea, despite it normally involving a fair drive. Just caught a fleeting glance of the great man, on this visit. If you want to see the legendary James get in for the early afternoon session. If you want a warm up try and find the documentary called the Irish pub, Currans and James feature heavily.
It’s a bit of a hotchpot in side, there are actually 3 snugs the best one to the right of the front door. You can sit at the bar and around what would have been the shop counter on the opposite side, there is also, space out the back.
There other great pubs close by Foxy Johns is across the road and Dick Mcjs just round the corner but if you want a true Irish pub experience it’s always Currans for me.
Damien Smyth, Irish poet and author in a recent blog summarised with this strong words about the future of Irish pubs.
Somehow it’s pubs like Curran’s, more so than others, that make me personally especially fearful that without proper consideration we could be on the brink of not only losing these unique places to gather & socialise but of losing a part of what it actually means to be Irish. Community. Conversation. Characters. Careful ownership and pride. Every time I come back to Dingle, I’ll be sure to drop by Curran’s for a drink, but also just to make sure that it’s simply still there. Now that’s something truly worthy of a drink.
These words sum up very well what will be your likely experience in Currans if you make the trip out to Dingle.
 |
The Landlord holding court
|
6. County Mayo (Part 2)
Mick Byrne’s, Main Street, Castlebar
If you want to visit an old, authentic, Irish pub in a small town with locals, this is the place. It is not a big place but there’s sure to be a warm welcome from Mick himself. Byrne's Pub started 120 years ago, they are the oldest family run pub in the town.
The Great man himself
In a article in the local paper, legendary landlord and owner Mick reflected When I was growing up, there were 74 pubs in Castlebar. Now there's, I think, just 17 open now.
My grandfather ran the pub for years and years. My father Michael John took it over then in the mid ’50s. Sadly, he passed away in 1960. My mother Margo then took it over from 1960. She sadly passed away on September 4, 2023
Mick took over the running of the pub in the mid ‘70s. He now claims that is the oldest pub in casle bar still operating. The local paper, The Connaught Telegraph sum Mick up as follows
Mick is a man of stories. Raconteur. Seanchaí.
Known the width and breath of this island. Larger than life. Yarn upon yarn. A walking library waiting to be opened.
Memories stretching back over 60 years and a wide repertoire of stories to tell, and only a finite amount of time to tell them
Mick normally pops down and has a keen eye for blow-ins but always offers a very warm welcome, normally followed by some free shots. Having visited the pub about twice every year now we always get the vip treatment, the locals are also chatty too and always accommodating to offer a chair or to share a table. We discussed this with a few locals, when we were here last October – there response was that with many of their families and friend especially children often based abroad they were always keen to hear how life was faring in the other side of the ocean. We have found that it doesn’t take long to find some common ground, distant relatives, children who’d. end at the same UK university.
I’m not aware of music featuring here, but we’ve always been directed by staff in the pub and Mick himself to pop over the road to Morans where there is often trad music being played.
I can strongly recommend Byrnes if you ever get to Castlebar, it’s a cracking pint of stout keenly priced and a real friendly pub.
I hope to revisit all six of these pubs on my next trip to Ireland—they have become like old friends to me.
It's interesting how most of these pubs have a character/person attached to them, which creates much of their atmosphere and welcome. Reflecting on that, I feel it's something we've lost here in the UK. Thinking back to my early days of drinking in the 1980s, pubs were often referred to by their owners or bartenders. While a few still hold onto this tradition, such as Nelly’s in Beverley, Peter Kavanagh’s or Ma Edgerton’s in Liverpool, those characters are largely gone now. In Ireland, however, they are still very much alive, thriving, and likely to be passed down through the family line.
It was another great trip - these are simply stunning pubs with majestic scenery to match.
