Monday, 29 August 2022

Searching for Stones in Sheffield - An overdue revisit to Steel City

Searching for Stones in Sheffield - An overdue revisit to Steel City 

 An overdue revisit to Steel City – aka taking little brother back to his alumni city as a Birthday treat 

Sheffield, England’s 4th largest city (just after Leeds, apparently, Manchester doesn’t count as the actual city ((and not Greater Manchester)) is quite small in comparison, arguably our first industrial city, its Athenian like 7 hills providing the water power and raw materials to make good stuff such as high-quality steel and fine cutlery. It once boasted the biggest shopping centre in Europe in Meadow Hall, home to two once great football teams and now dominated a little, by students with two large universities – whose buildings do pop up fairly regularly across the city. 
Stones in the York 

Part of our family’s history – Father's parents were Steel workers and Umbrella makers in nearby Stocksbridge, so as kids, it was a city we visited regularly – from rural North Yorkshire we would gawp with awe, at the hole in road (or as locals referred to it - Oyle in’t Road, or up towards the towering Park Hill flats looming over the city centre and enjoy posh birthday treat meals in Cole Brothers Department Store (though it was actually bought by John Lewis during the 2nd World War). Brother Nick, also did his Tourism Degree at what was then, Hallamshire Polytechnic and as a newly qualified teacher I would often jump on the bus from Stoke on Trent and head over the Peaks to quaff many an ale with him and his small band of real ale student buddies.  

The 'Oyle' was filled in 1994 when the trams returned to Sheffield, it was originally part of some architects dream to create a post war Underground City Centre – Sheffield having been extensively bombed during the 2nd World War.

There is a great quote from one of Sheffield’s prodigal son’s, musician, Jarvis Cocker 

“The Hole in the Road had a reputation for late night violence, which made it a scary place to walk home in the early hours – and this was not helped by the fact that the building’s construction gave rise to an effect similar to that of the whispering gallery in St Paul’s Cathedral – meaning that it was extremely difficult to work out where any menacing noises were coming from." 
 Jarvis Cocker speaking to World of Interiors Magazine 

Jarvis also makes mention, of a huge fish tank in the Oyle, which I can just remember – but being in Yorkshire, rather being full of colorful exotic fish, this one had your common or garden Roach, Tench and Bream – it became a bit of a landmark and was used as a means to placate kids on shopping trips- ‘
'If tha behaves tha can go an look at fish’ and also a place where you met your date on a Friday or Saturday night. 

The Park Hill Flats ( nother 1960’s architects dream – ‘Sheffield's streets in the sky’) look quite smart now, all multi coloured, they have been tarted up to meet Sheffield's booming student accommodation need. Hallamshire is now a proper grown up  Uni and the beer scene is equally booming – having done a bit of pre reading and research ahead of the trip – I can highly recommend the local CAMRA groups beer, monthly magazine; – Beers Matters – a really great resource and one of the better branch magazines about – most of their back copies are available online @sheffield.camra.org.uk 

I can also highly recommend the Sheffield HopCast Podcasts, another fantastic resource on all things beery and pubs happing in Sheffield - @sheffieldhopcast.co.uk 

The 500th copy of Beer Matters is well worth a read especially about the developing beer scene in Sheffield. A couple of interesting statements;

Sheffield had four breweries. Four. Whitbread, Stones, Hope & Anchor and Wards, now all gone. All that remains are the names of the beers, brewed by other brewers. In 1974, when the Sheffield Branch of CAMRA was founded, the City of Sheffield had four large and long-established breweries; Stones Cannon Brewery (1865), Wards Sheaf(1896), Whitbread Exchange (1851) and the often-forgotten Hope Brewery on Claywheels Lane (1939). 45 years later, none of these remain. 

Down from over 40 individual breweries that had served Sheffield at the beginning of the twentieth century. However, now in 2022 we have 23 functioning brewing companies with in the city. The 1974 Sheffield CAMRA local guide lists only three pubs in the Sheffield One Postal District who are using handpumps: the Peacock Inn (Fitzwilliam Street, Tetley Bitter), the Red Deer (Tetleys) and the Red House (Wards). The Peacock is long closed with the Red House surviving until 2016. 

Hence, the Red Deer can claim to be the central Sheffield pub with the longest continuous use of handpumps. Elsewhere in Sheffield, there are only three other pubs who have continuously used handpumps over this period: the Nottingham House (Broomhill), the Rose and Crown (Wadsley) and the White Lion (Heeley). Shakespeare’s, then a Wards pub, had handpumps but these were only for use ‘in case of emergency.’ 

Back in 1974, in a city which had only ten available cask beers, no-one would have predicted that soon there would be over 400 available on a typical day: mostly on handpump. 


Beer Royalty, Roger Protz, writes the intro to the 500th edition and posts a lovely story about the late Dave Wickett, of Fat Cat and Kelham Island brewing fame. 

And then came Dave Wickett, who started the beer revival in the city, first with the Fat Cat and then Kelham Island Brewery. I got to know Dave well as we shared a love of both beer and football – I think we spent more time discussing the mixed fortunes of Sheffield United and West Ham United than we did brewing!

Dave told me a wonderful story of how he bought the Fat Cat, refurbished it and was ready to open but he didn’t have any beer. He phoned Wards, who were still brewing, and none other than the head brewer came round and asked to see the cellar. “I’ll tell you what I’ll do,” he told Dave. “I’ll put a cellar tank in with pressure points on the bar and away you go.” “I don’t want that,” Dave said. “I want casks and handpumps.” “Nobody wants to drinks that anymore,” the man from Wards said and stormed off in a huff. 

In desperation Dave phoned Timothy Taylor in Keighley and asked if he could buy an 18-gallon cask of Landlord and was told Sheffield was outside the brewery’s delivery area. So Dave drove to Keighley, put the cask in the boot of his car and took it back to the pub. Two days later he phoned Taylors who said they expected he’d been unable to sell the beer. “No,” Dave told them. “It went in two days and I want two more casks.” “In that case, we’ll deliver,” Taylors said and with just three cask of ale Dave Wickett helped the brewery turn Landlord into a national brand. 


The 500th Edition of the Sheffield CAMRA branch magazine; Beers Matters can be accessed at https://sheffield.camra.org.uk/beer-matters/ 


Beer Number 1 and ½ – The Sheffield Tap, Platform 1B Sheffield Railway Station

Handily, pub Number 1 is literally. a trip and a stagger, off the train – situated on Platform 1 – though neither Nick or I can work out how you get to Platform 1 at Sheffield Station – so mere mortals like us leave the station and turn right and the street entrance is there to the Sheffield Tap. 

Apparently the Pivovar guys were stood on the roof of said railway station back in 2008, when they noticed the long abandoned Edwardian refreshment and dining rooms – they had a vision and the 1st of many Pivovar Railway Taps was opened in said refreshment rooms, in 2010 and was quickly winning awards and obviously a business model that worked (think York Tap, Harrogate Tap, Newcastle Tap et al) 

Having recently visited the slightly, newer Harrogate Tap (OK only 3 years younger - Harrogate opened in 2013) – the grandeur of its Sheffield big sister is beginning to fade a little, though as Nick pointed out it does get a hell of a lot of footfall especially on match days and weekends – my initial impression as I sat alone waiting waiting for Nick to arrive, was seeing a good deal of faded scuffed paintwork and corners, even my Pivovar pint glass was faded and had seen better days. 


My 1st pint of the day - Durham Magus



Bar at the Sheffield Tap 




However there was already a steady flow of customers for an early Monday pre-12pm – a choice of 10 cask ales, welcoming bar staff happy to give suggestion about what to drink - most folk being offered and tasting before buying ( but I still think Harrogate tap has the edge) 

Amazingly for the first time in a while a cask bar with no Ossett offering – it turned out that Sheffield's a bit of a Ossett desert – bucking the current trend – though there were a few sightings of Doom Bar sad to say 

In January 2013, the second part of the Sheff Tap venture was action with opening of the Tapped Brew Company brewing out of what was the 1st class dining room (there is a viewing video you can stare longinly) – there is normally at least a couple of Tapped brews available at the bar. 

 An interesting article in the Guardian writing about the opening of the Brewery in 2013 puts it very well and still feels very relevant today in 2022. 

In a city still disfigured by hundreds of derelict buildings, the Sheffield Tap is a beacon to follow, proving that with investment, time and passion, there is much of the same to be done. Not simply for idealistic or aesthetic reasons, but to create a functioning, economy-stimulating enterprise. The Tap provides £100,000 in rent per year to the railway station, money that when the building was sat empty, simply wasn't there. Now it will go on helping to improve services to and within the city. That's specially pertinent in the context of the cuts in public spending in the city this year which which will see every service affected and in some cases, completely eradicated. As someone who lives in Sheffield, I draw solace and hope from the new life given to this grand old building. Daniel Dylan Wray, Sheffield's old railway diner is brought back brilliantly to life       The Guardian Wednesday 20th March 2013 

Prices in the Tap ranged from £4 to 6:50 average about 4:60 – the cheapest was the on-site brewed Sorsby Stout a 4% trad dry stout on offer at £4 a pint – one I must have on the next visit. The other Tapped Brew offer on the bar was New Haven, a 5% Pale. 

Checking on the train in, Untapped had a listing for Soft Mick from Northern Whisper Brewing over in Rawtenstall, Lancs for a number of reasons (3.8% being a key one it was just 11:30am) I had planned this to be my first pint – but the bar man said it had gone of the night before – it must have been good as it had only been on a day or so – on asking what was equally good I was directed to the a pint of Durham Brewery Magus 3.8 Pale which did do the job .

Nick then arrived off his train – he’d already managed a pint at Doncaster Station (at the newish Draughtsman on Platform 3B!)  whilst changing trains so being a bit behind I got him to add a Half of the Pub brewed New haven to his order of a pint from Cornish brewery Firebrand – Patchwork Rocket a 4.2% American Pale. The New Haven was a bit earthy with a slight haze – definitely worth trying 

Beer 2 – Wetherspoons The Benjamin Huntsmen, Cambridge Street 


After checking our bags into our digs for the evening – city centre Travel Lodge a steal at £38 for the night we agreed that a good lining of the stomach was required to help prepare for the day ahead so a short walk through town took us to our usual Spoons – There are actually 3 spoons in Sheffield city centre; Benjamin Huntsman, across the road from the Sheffield Waters Works Company and both 3-4 mins from the Bankers Draft – the Sheaf Island is just on the edge of the centre romantically on the site of the old Wards brewery. 

Though not a historical building, unlike the other two city centre Spoons, we have always favoured the Huntsmen – it normally has a slightly wider choice of cask beer – as was the case today having checked the Wetherspoons app as we walked across from the Travellodge
The Interior of the Benjamin Hunstman

As always and worth some praise for this sometimes maligned Pub Group there is some interesting background to the pub and local area around the walls of the pub More than 200 years ago Benjamin Huntsman invented his famous crucible steelmaking process, putting Sheffield well and truly on the map. Crucible steelmaking not only changed Sheffield. It changed the world. Huntsman shunned personal fame, and as a devout Quaker refused to allow his portrait to be painted.
But now his statue has become a well-known meeting point in the Meadowhall Shopping Centre - wonder how he felt about statues? (he would probably have something to say about having a pub named after him as well being a good quaker!) 

Huntsman’s pioneering process paved the way for Sir Henry Bessemer, who turned steel making into a mighty industry. This, in turn, attracted great names like Hadfield, Brown and Firth to Sheffield, making the city one of the world’s leading steelmaking centres.      

Two All Day brunches, did the beer soaking action and was well within Spoons 10 minute order to table target – the food arrived before the beer, as mentioned there was a good beer offer on for a Monday – I went for an Acorn Gold - typical Spoons beer ok but as always seeming to lack a bit of sparkle/fizz. Nick went for a Bradfield Farmers but we think he ended up with a Bradfield Brown Cow which again he felt was drinkable but not much to shout about. 

We had agreed that I would be in charge of the 1st half of the day's itinerary and then let Nick pick out some of his old student haunts to finish us off – rather than pick the expected well trod beer routes of the Ecclesall Road crawl and more recently Abbeydale Road crawl – I decided we should head out to Fulwood and create our own Fulwood Road crawl – so we headed down the Moor to pick up a 83A bus. 

We had 15 mins till the next bus up to Fulwood so we popped intro the Moor Market and called in Beer Central, Shaun of Sheffield Hopcast fame was in residence a quick chat with Shaun about the current beer scene in Kelham Island and his must visit pub in Sheffield – The Rutland Arms - Nick bought a copy of Sheffield Heritage Pubs book which came in handy throughout the rest of the day and I picked up a copy of August's Beers Matters To read on the bus.
Sean at Beer Central - well worth popping in - The Moor Market 

A 20 minute ride up to Fulwood passing the Wards Arch at the bottom of Eccleshall Road, site of the old Sheaf brewery, it was sad to see the W had fallen off the arch  – hope that the recently opened Spoons adjacent will put that right – looked very busy in there for a Monday lunchtime (New Wetherspoons is called  The Sheaf Island not been in yet but hope there is some history re the brewery up - having checked on tehri website there is both on the wall and on their webpages) 


Ward's Arch now betwixed a new Spoons 


Talking of Wards came across an interesting letter in Beer Matters (March 2022) from Mark Anderson Managing Director, Maxim Brewery 

Your review of Sheffield Brewing in BM 500 you mention that Robinsons have taken over brewing Wards which is not strictly true. Yes, we franchised the brewing of the keg version to Robinsons brewery some time ago as we did not have those facilities at the time - but we remain the Brand owner here at Maxim Brewery at Houghton le Spring in County Durham and continue to brew the cask version. We have however re- moved the yeasty sulphur smell that Wards did sometimes have. Do try it again if you’re up our way. 

 Leaving the bus as we reached the Co Op which is adjacent to our venue for .........

Beer number 3 Beer 3 Fulwood Ale Club, Brooklands Avenue

The Fulwood Ale Club (the Co Op is just out of shot on the right) 


Fulwood Fulwood Ale Club is a fairy recent edition to this rather posh southern suburb of Sheffield and is the smaller sister to the Ecclesall Road Ale Club, both run by The Brew Foundation – billed a potentially the smallest bars in Sheffield a modern micro bar in a formers butchers shop with some nice seating outside the front – also acts a s a bottle shop.       

Brew Foundation are a cuckoo brewing outfit, currently brewing in my neck of the woods, at Wincle Brewery, they brew a range of beers but tend to focus/specialise in drinkable pales. 

Nick stayed fairly safe and went for one of his usuals – a HawksHead Pale, I plumbed for, a new brewery for me, the Shiny brewery from Little Eaton – a very refreshing Lil Wingman NEIPA, the only other guy at the bar was on his 5th pint having been stood up by a mate, complemented me on my choice. As the sun had come out we sat out side watching the world of Fulwood go by and got into conversation with Mr 5 pints who turned out to be owner of The Club House one of Sheffield’s Sports Bar close to Bramhall Lane – a bit of a beer connoisseur we had a good chat – he did mention that they currently had 4 riding Cask beers on and on a Monday night it was only £2:50 a pint. 

Beers outside the Fulwood Ale Club 















As the weather was still holding and the forecast rain had not arrived yet we set off down the hill back towards the city centre heading to Abbeydale’ Brewery’s only pub, recent Pub of the Year winner 

Beer 4 The Rising Sun, Fulwood Road 
The Rising Sun 



As a few drops of rain started to fall with perfect timing we went into the Sun to be welcomed a myriad of gleaming hand pumps- 6 Abbeydale and 4 guest ales £3:90 a pint. Checking my untapped saw that Moonshine was a missing tick for me so that’s what I went for - Nick went for Abbeydale’s Daily Bread their straight up bitter – think I made the better choice. 
 A very lovely big pub with a range of rooms and seating plus a big outdoor space - we settled in the two ‘Cyril’ Chairs (family joke – just google Cyril Fletcher – That’s Life) – we were though 2 of the 3 customers in the pub on a Monday afternoon. 

Great toilets in the Sun 
Tick off all the beers you've drunk on the way out of the loos 

For MalTravAle podcast co host Bruce, they are hosting a port and sherry tasting next port and sherry tasting next Monday £21 a ticket.
A big rambling pub – I did comment that it did have the feel bit of a Harvester carvery without a carvery but nice atmosphere just eerily it quiet for a Monday afternoon. 

 As it was now raining a lot heavier we decided to jump on the bus to get a bit further down Fulwood road crawl – handily the bus stop is opposite the pub and now both the 120 and 83A route meant there were regular buses heading back towards the city centre. 



Beer 5 The Itchy Pig Ale House, Glossop Road 
The Itchy Pig Ale House 


Jumping off the bus at Broom hill and into the welcoming Itchy Pig Ale house – offering us a choice of 4 cask ales, 3 of which were Thornbridge 
I went for a Carnival Brewing Compnay (another new brewery for me) Carmen, a 4% American Pale ‘’Its hazy” the bar man said, which put Nick off, so he went for a Thornbridge Am:Pm 
We liked this place, it felt very clean – sewing machine tables and pews – malt sacks hanging off the wall and 6 of us beer punters were in at 3 pm on a Monday afternoon. 






 What pub description sums it up well..........      

Micro-pub conversion of a gift shop previously called Knowles's Emporium.
Five real ales, two craft ales and a craft lager. The food offer is snacks with a porcine theme - pork pies and and a variety of pork scratching’s. Sheffield West Pub of the Year 2020 & 2019.

Have got to say the Sam’s scratchings we sampled were very good indeed.                    



 Beer 6 The York, 243-247 Fulwood Road 


 Across the road to the York a True North brewery pub they have quite an estate around Sheffield – a lot in the Eccleshall Road area, tapping into the student market. True North with license to brew stones - hard to say if it is truly tastes like it did Stones Best Bitter First brewed in 1948 by William stones Ltd at the Cannon Brewery in Sheffield it was brewed for steel workers who were moving away from the darker mild beers they had been drinking uop to that point. 
Bass Charrington bought out Stones in 1968 and an initially promoted and pushed stones particular the keg version so that by the 80s it had become the biggest selling beer in the UK.


However the focus on keg pretty much killed off the cask version, the Cannon Brewery was closed in 1999 but Stones continued to be brewed across across the Bass Charrington breweries, who were then taken over by Molson Coors.   

Originally a 4.1% beer, it was gradually reduced it down to 3.9%, however, even, in 1991 the cask version won the Silver Medal in the Champion Beer of Britain. By the end of the 1990s Bass decided to phase out Keg Stones, in order to promote Worthington E as their national brand. 

A small amount of cask was still brewed on the license, initially at the Thwaites brewery and finally at the Everards Brewery in Leicestershire. 

The brand was finally withdrawn by Coors in 2011 however that was not the end and in 2021 True North Brewery based in Sheffield managed to persuade Coors to allow them to brew Stones under license. True North use the original recipe, producing a 4.1% beer with Challenge and Golding hops and are said to be using the original Stones yeast, the beer is available in most True North pubs 


The York had quite an eclectic range of beers and loud music mainly 90’s alternative sounds
– it was very quiet – felt like a student led pub and on a rainy Monday in the summer holidays felt a bit empty. 

In the York on a quiet Monday afternoon 



We drank up and set off down hill towards the city centre taking a quick detour to take in another Sheffield icon – the original Henderson’s Sauce factory only to be confronted by the worrying site of Henderson’s surrounded by fencing – we think that the building is now in University of Sheffield and looks like they doing a general tidy up of that area.



                            The Orginal home of legendary Hendos Sauce - another Sheffield icon 





With that ticked off we skipped back across the busy A61 and down Victoria Street and into the ska filled Bath hotel across from the old towns baths 




Beer 7 The Bath Hotel, Victoria Street 
A mix of Abbeydale and Acorn on the bar Very Art Deco, we were the only people in initially, and got a very nice window seat  in the rear snug with service hatch.
CAMRA’s What Pub description of the Bath Hotel 
 

A careful restoration of the 1930's interior gave this two roomed pub a conservation award and acknowledgement by CAMRA as one of Britain's pubs with Nationally Important Historic Pub Interior.



The bar lies between the tiled lounge, a small corridor drinking area and the cosy well-upholstered snug. Food is light snacks only. The Bath Hotel is an unusually complete example of a Sheffield corner public house, which retains, in almost complete form, the 1931 plan and fittings. 

Managed by the award-winning Thornbridge Brewery, the Bath Hotel occupies the sharp-angled corner of a mid-Victorian terrace, close to the eponymous (Glossop Road) baths. Acquired by the Burton brewers Ind Coope in 1914, it was remodelled and extended next door by them in 1931 and, except for the loss of its off-sales (hence one disused outside doorway), its layout and fittings are scarcely altered since. 

The lounge snug on the corner is a real delight, with simply-patterned leaded windows, curving leatherette bench seating and hole-in-the-wall hatch to the servery. The larger main bar has some original fitments too, whilst the angled corridor, with its service opening for stand-up drinking, is just as it ever was. 

The Bath was statutorily listed in 1999 following casework by CAMRA and a sensitive refurbishment two years later won it a prestigious national Pub Conservation Award (awarded jointly by English Heritage, the Victorian Society and CAMRA). 


 
The Frog & Parrot 
A wander through Sheffs Easter land with a nostalgic detour passed the Frog and Parrot the corner of on Westfield Terrace ( now known as the Devonshire Quarter apparently) it now has a very impressive Guinness mural now a Green King pub use to be the home pf the the "legendary" 'Rodger and Out'
beer, which was only served in 1/3rds and you got a certificate for downing a glass 

The drink gained cult status during the 80s and 90s and stood at an unnerving 16.9% ABV when it entered the Guinness World Book of Records in 1988 as the World's strongest beers. There were some plan to revive the beer by the Dead Parrot Brewery but not sure if this came about – I remember it being strong, dark and sickly more cough medicine than fine ale. 



 Enroute to the Rutland we stumbled upon the Industry Tap,   really interesting felt very new as part of some major building project - but a good vibe and quite a bit of atmospheric to be fair mums and dads with Prams, beer heads and couple s all keg line up - so too 'crafty aka hazy' for Nick. 

 Beer 8 Industry Tap, Sidney Street 
I choose half of Round Corner Bull-Roarer a 5.2% American Pale – really enjoy this brewery’s beers and we must commit to a visit to Melton Mowbray sometime soon – a town of Pork Pies and such a good brewery sounds like heaven and again somewhere I haven’t been since my own Uni days.      
Nick went for a Purity Bunny Hop at 3.3% ,we stayed on half’s these were probably the biggest beer prices we hade seen all day - a pint of Table Beer at 2.8% was £5:10! 


                                                                Inside the Industry tap 





 Beer 9 The Rutland Arms, 86 Brown Street 
Off to the Rutland 


 Suggested by Sean at Beer Central and a must visit Sheff Pub, the Rutland is a beer nerd's dream destination- sticky carpets, ecleptic furnishing and fittings including a mannequin's head hanging upside down at the bar? - loads of beers and full of Human League and Curiosity killed the Cat look a likes sat at most tables on a Monday early evening and sound track full of throwbacks to Nicks 90 ‘s days of Uni life in Steel city – our kind pf pub and probably my favorite of the day – interestingly the busiest pub we visited in Sheffield. 




Frank Sidebottom lives on at the Rutland 




 Our Choice of pints were both brewed by Blue Bee, nearby at their Neepsend brewery, Blue Bee beers are heavily featured at the Rutland. I went for Reet Pale and Nick Hilltop Best Bitter, these also happened to be the cheapest beers on the bar both at £3:50 

 On the Monday we visited, there was a choice of 7 cask ales plus plus 2 cask ciders on. Three Blue Bee beers and 2 milds including Cheshire brewery Red Willow Dubbel Mild 9.1% on hand pump - though that was £6:90 a pint – we weren’t brave enough to sample that after 9 pints! 

While admiring some of the old Duncan Gilmour Brewery lettering and windows etching we also spotted a Frank Sidebottom lurking up stairs – as stated above an eclectic place 




                                                        Interesting bar in the Rutland 


A quick stroll back to the hotel for a quick freshen and phone recharge – we set of for the 2nd half of our Sheffield tour. 

We decided not to pop in the Norfolk Arms, the ‘clinging on’ back street local on the edge of Castlegate and opposite the Travelodge What Pub – gives a rather cryptic description of the Norfolk, which I guess gives you a good feel about what its like Busy town centre pub with very varied clientele. Real ale is only available at the weekend – beers are put on sale on Thursday and are available until they sell out. 

The nearby Penny Black, below the Royal Mail sorting office, was another we past by. One of the local papers, The Examiner, ran a recent article that included the following report on the PB Dave R claims the Penny Black is "not a nice place" if "you are not a total drunk and buy or sell stollen [sic] goods and like decent honest people"


Beer 10, The Bankers Draft, 1-3 The Market Place 

 Again feeling the need for some beer soaking sustenance, we headed back into the city centre and another Wetherspoons - The Bankers Draft recently billed as having worst food in Yorkshire- I did the Brew Dog Elvis Juice and meal package Nicks bangs on about most podcasts (i.e. you get the most expensive and highest ABV beer in your meal deal) Nick went for a Red Castle Red lady there was actually quite a good range on. 
Not to bad a beer offering for a Spoons 



Beers definitely beat the food 10mins food order in this spoons though have to say it was edible though my mixed grill did come on in several stages! 

From the Bankers we headed out in now. rather dark murky and wet Sheffield night and decided that a Kelham Island tour was probably not the the best call. 

So we did the next best think and went to the Kelham Island gateway pub; The Shakespeare. 








Beer 11 The Shakespeare , Gibraltar Street
 
The Shakespeare an old student haunt of Nick's and was quite lively for a Monday night, though we got seated in the front bar underneath the Wards etching, a Nomadic Bandit Pale 4.8% £ 3:90 a pint Nick went for Red Willow Feckless 4.1 best bitter. 


We quite liked the look of the bar very reminiscent of our beloved Suddaby’s bar with the teak wood bar top and bottom features very 70’s. 





 




Wards window at The Shakespeare


 
       Bar in the Shakespeare




Beers 12 and 13, The Grapes, Trippet Lane
 

It was now getting on -one of Nick’s regular Monday night haunts was The Grapes aka Flynn’s after the family that have run the pub for a number of decades, a bit of an Irish theme with reputedly Sheffield’s best Guinness, the Oirish theme is ramped up on a Monday night with singing/ music and we entered past another fine Guinness mural to the sound of Celtic voices. 

Cask Abbeydale Moonshine and Stancill Barnsley bitter were on the bar but we had to go for pints of the black stuff and very good it was too, indeed so good we managed 2 each had a sing song and then staggered back through some now rather soggy streets. (There is music on every night but Wednesday) 


 
The Grapes Bar 



A very fine pint of plain 



All in all a cracking day out in Steel city, though to be honest we only just put a little toe into the pub scene – would have loved to have got into a few more of the brewery taps though in truth many are only open on the weekends and beyond the Shakey we didn’t step into the beer triangle of Kelham island. 

We had pondered having a couple of beers on the following morning but we must be getting old and after a cracking breakfast underneath arches at the Victoria junction café – well worth seeking out in the very interetsing quays area of Sheffield - lots of chain hotels all round this area as well - if you get the chance get yourself off to Steel City - defintely a first class beer destination.
 
I can certainly recommend the Full English at the Victoria Junction 


and finally a really readable article in Examiner from 26th April 2020 by Paul Whitehouse that give a useful overview of the once great breweries of Sheffield 


The rise and fall of Sheffield's 'big four' breweries now lost in time The dominated the market for a few short decades before drinkers were left crying into their pint 

Those who started a drinking career in Sheffield during the 1970s would have found their choice of beer dominated by the city’s ‘big four’ breweries and such was their stranglehold on the market it seemed the position would never change.  But by the turn of the century the industry had gone full circle with the major breweries which grew from a series of mergers and takeovers all gone, opening the door for smaller independents to thrive once more. Arguments raged over the qualities, or otherwise, of the drinks which emerged from the Ward’s Sheaf Brewery, Stones’ Cannon brewery and the Whitbread and Hope breweries. 

Was Wards better, or worse, for hangovers? These were questions which remain unresolved and as memories of the beers produced in that era fade, will continue to remain so. If liquids could be stamped ‘Made in Sheffield’ maybe it would have been Wards which could claim the title. A name as famous – almost – as the city itself, the brewery itself grew from the sort of takeovers which would eventually spell its demise. 

Originating under a different guise in the early 19th Century, Steptimus Ward stepped in with financial help when it ran into trouble and a beer was named in his honour. His influence grew and the firm too over a rival – moving into its Sheaf Brewery powerbase in Ecclesall Road. A period of prosperity followed before Wards itself was taken over, by Vaux, in 1972. The brewery was reputedly still profitable when Vaux was broken up and became a casualty of that shake-out. The brewery’s position in trendy Ecclesall Road ensured it would have a future of sorts, being redeveloped as one of the early ‘city living’ apartment complexes. 

Stones brewery was another bastion of the city, founded by William Stones in the 1860s, a century before twists and turns of fortune saw it consumed into the Bass group. Again, it wasn’t to last and the Cannon brewery turned out its last beer shortly before the end of the century, though production was moved elsewhere. 

Lady’s Bridge in Sheffield city centre is an address inextricably linked with Whitbreads. Their Exchange brewery, alongside the River Don, dominated the location before its closure in 1993 and the building still does, albeit with a very different use as a charity’s headquarters. The Whitbread identity dated from the early 1960s, however, with the business predating that change by more than a century. 

Sheffield’s other big name was the Hope Brewery, an impressive complex purpose built just before the Second World War, replacing an earlier incarnation elsewhere in the city. That business went through a variety of changes, with its roots dating back to 1899, with a series of name changes resulting from mergers before it became part of the Bass Charrington empire, closing in 1994. The once impressive building was later demolished, leaving it with the distinction of being the only of the ‘big four’ to disappear from the city’s landscape.




Friday, 10 June 2022

A Tenby Whitsun Wobble

 A Tenby Whitsun Wobble

Image from Visit Pembrokeshire.com 

Could Tenby be the perfect seaside resort? (its not in Yorkshire so my heart still says Whitby) but to put forwards its case:

3 stunning beaches of lovely golden sands

A plethora of independent shops, cafes and restaurants – not a Golden Arch or Chicken Colonel in sight

A castle (quite a small one) with a fantastic view, picturesque harbour, 2 islands – one you can visit on foot (St Catherines) and one by a short boat trip (Caldey) 

Only one small amusement arcade – tucked away in the middle of town 

Rail link and some very nice medieval walls 

Lots of little lanes, passages and a real cornucopia of buildings from the 15th Century Tudor Merchant’s house down near the harbour to the recently constructed South Beach Waters Edge complex with its very own shack where you can buy a pint to sup on the beach (Ok they only offer Phrava or Aspalls)  

Three iconic lifeboat houses – one that was on Grand Designs (the original slightly less iconic is tucked away on Castle Beach under the castle) 

Lots of pubs of all shapes and sizes – CAMRA’s What Pub list 27 pubs in just the town alone, with more in the local villages 

And to top it all, two extremely good town based breweries – both with must visit taps (plural in both cases a tap at the brewery and one in town as well)

Oh and a beer named after a friendly walrus that made the lifeboat slip way its home for a while in the summer of 2021


Lets start with the breweries a little hard to put one above the other – Tenby Brew Co only offer keg no


cask – but a nice range of mainly hazy IPA’s – my favourite was their Son of a Beach – tropical Pale 4.2% very easy drinking – Lil’ Chu a Rye based Table beer 2.8% was good, as was Luminary a 5.4% East Coast Pale. Their Brewery is to the South of the town with its weekend Tap bar and with a couple ore taps inn the area. 


Tenby Harbwr Brewery  seem to focus more on Cask and small pack and I do like their artwork – minor issue that the cask pints soon lost their head – maybe I'm being too northern – pick of their range was Caldey Lollipop – but was only available in bottles when I was down – they did say they rotate the cask  brews they do – quite a interesting range for a smallish brewer – bitter, amber, red ale, lager Pales and a stout – also love the names they give their beers and the explanation on the packs etc – quite a focus on South Wales specialities -  sea and rugby



Loved a picture of former French Rugby Beefcake - Sébastien Chabal on their bottle/pump clips  of Sea Bass – a 3.9% French Pale Ale. 




So I'm going to sit on the fence and say the are both breweries are well worth checking out 


Tenby Brewing Co are based on the Salterns Industrial park just behind the stunning South Beach and

very near the railway station and one of Tenby’s main car parks – they started brewing in 2015 – which must have been a good year for beer in Tenby as Harbwr started the same year – moving to their present site in 2018. Their website gives a much better overview than I could so …….

We've been brewing full flavoured Independent beers since 2015 here in Tenby, on the south west tip of Wales. 

We produce a wide range of styles from our hoppy flagship session Pale ale 'Son of a Beach' to limited edition collaboration brews in all sorts of styles from Imperial Stouts to fruity sours.

Alongside the brewery on the Salterns (typical modern industrial unit with a brewery in side like Roosters, Buxton, Thornbridge et al) is the Tap Yard – Tap room and shop – shop seems to be open normal shoppy hours though the tap room only open at weekend and on Friday nights in the  summer months. A fairly typical industrial tap room – you know the shabby chic scene lots of scaffold poles, barrels for seats around 7 taps on offer plus cans and merch (The merch is also available at all the other taps – definitely recommend the very snazzy none plastic sun glasses – made out of sea grass apparently – everybody wants my pair) 


The Brewery also runs two other Taps – one in Tenby the Tap N Tan (which handily was two doors down from our holiday apartment – planning!) and HwB Tap and food hall in nearby Nartbeth (20 mins by train or 30 mins by car). The Tap N Tan in town is a great venue tucked away off Upper Frog Street in a courtyard with two or three other eating/drinking venues- full description lower down. 

The Hwb at Narthbeth is another great venue and well worth a visit, based in a former school a real pleasure dome of local art work, street food and cracking beers – there are four permanent food vendors (Burger, Thai, Taccos and loaded fries at the moment) with regular pp ups as well – canteen style seating and looks to be open every day 10m till 11pm. 


Tenby HARBWR Brewery  (Harbour- I note there is another Harbour Brewery down in Bodmin so in Tenby Harbwr/Harbour is used on signage and labels etc) is a Craft Brewery and Taproom, brewing a range of core cask ales just above the historic and very picturesque Tenby Harbour.


Established in 2015, HARBWR Brewery is situated in a refurbished premises in Sergeants Lane. Their website evocatively states;  The brewery is steeped in history, and is designed to portray the rich heritage of Tenby as a seaside town. Conversely, HARBWR Brewery’s modern brews bring guests right back to the present.” They also claim to be Tenby Harbour’s first-ever brewery – though my research suggest that both Harbwr and Tenby Brewing Co were set up in 2015.

The Harbwr Brewery Bar

They have done amazing things with the brewery building, shop/café and court yard style seating especially when you look at what state the building was in in 2019 – it now is home to a a state-of-the-art 5-barrel brewery, which you can have a good look at behind the takeaway bar and windows around the 18th Century warehouse – if the weather is nice sitting in the lane drinking beer made literally yards away is a pretty awesome experience- note that the brewery bar shuts early in the evening and you will need to move upstairs to the Buccaneer or the Hope and Anchor a couple of doors down.



All of HARBWR’s ales can currently be purchased within the brewery itself, in its sister pubs, The Buccaneer, The Hope & Anchor, HARBWR Bar & Kitchen in nearby Saundersfoot (didn’t get to visit here) – see below for a report on the Hope and Anchor 




Best Pub in Tenby 

Tenby Harbour Brewery Tap & Kitchen (formerly Buccaneer Inn)


Pembrokeshire CAMRA Pub of the Year 2018. The Buccaneer/Tap 7 Kitchen is onSt Julian Street which links the town square to the harbour. Large indoor bar is very cosy with beams, stove and Tenby memorabilia adorning the walls. A huge beer garden and covered area at the back has been put over Covid times there is loads of seating is to the rear with heating for those chilly evenings - including little sheds 

The Buccaneer acts as the main tap  the brewery tap for the Brewery down stars and all the pumsp ( and there area few are Tenby beers - no other cask offer when I was there for the week.

There is/was a smaller Tap Room in between the back of this pub and a set of stairs that takes you down to the Brewery Lane – though open this appeared to be being used for pre-booked parties and gatherings and we didn’t get in there all week.  A great place to visit - great beer, good food really good young staff - when ever we went day or lat night was the same.


Closely followed by the Tap n Tan – as mentioned above this is the Tenby Brewing Co tap in the town and open most of the week apart from Mondays when I was down – they do also tend to shut a bit earlier than advertised so get there before 9pmish to be sure of a drink – they also suggest that when its silly season, get there by 4:30 if you want to eat as they don’t reserve tables. Originally called the Sand bar and you may still see this name in some of the review sites the Tap n tan offers a variety of seating outdoors in the courtyard, tall communal tables or the more regular pubs style tables – whilst tucked away a bit down a court yards its next door to the very yellow Coach and Horses Pub (see below for description) so if you look up Frog street you will work out where you need to be – there is a burger (Indie Burger) and a tapas place (Bar 12) in the first part of the court yard then Tap N tan take sup the re st with a vacant unit in between – there is also a popular Caribbean restaurant next door and the De Vallance Pavilion which hosts a range of shows, gigs etc


At least 6 Tenby beers are normally available (all taps in the wall no cask)  with a good handful of other localish beers and a solid range Ipas of all shades, table beers sours ad stouts – I put the beer board

Tasting paddles in the Tap n Tan 

below to give you an idea – the offer changes quite a lot – I eve managed to get the brother in law (a solid Thatchers/Strongbow man to try Strawberry Sour from Farm Yard Brew Co that was on the first couple of times we visited. 

Their current food partner is Feast who specialises in Live fire BBQ – their counter is to the right of the bar and got to say though we just drank the food looked mighty fine – but again very popular with short serving hours.















Hope and Anchor – just a couple of doors down from the Harbour Brewery Pub – again a split inside and smaller outdoor seating area – the outside bit sits right next to the road down to the harbour so a great place to watch the world go by -for Whit week this was mainly reserved for dining (at busy times and especially 5 till 7pm most tables in most pubs were reserved for dining 




I tweeted during the week, a slight frustration that some of the nice looking pubs/venues in Tenby were a little blighted by the ubiquitous Molson Coors range on every bar Sharps Atlantic, Madri, Carling, Phrava and Aspalls – a couple of saviours if you fancied something not brewed in Tenby(or a drink with a very continental name but brewed in Burton/Tadcaster like the new beer that’s everywhere Madri Madrid Exceptional with a taste of the Trent! – were a pint of Brains SA Gold in the Crown and Tribute in the Tenby House Hotel.

Saved- a creamy pint of Brains SA Gold in the Crown 

 

And Tribute in the Tenby House Hotel 



The Crown – a very solid beer only Brains (Marstons) Pub tucked away a bit down near the Imperial Hotel and bottom Gate of the town walls – Rev James and SA Gold were the cask offer – with Barry Island IPA on draft which I am a bit partial to – the Gold was creamy and lovely and served like ‘oop North’ with a tight head – feels like more a local pub this one – Juke Box was popular – don’t see these in pubs much these days and telly always seemed to have some for of motor sport on,






The Tenby House Hotel – which weirdly was closed for a couple of days we were down there – go in the pub rather than the drinking area to the left and side WhatPub give a sound description: 



“A smart building on the town square built in 1821 by Sir William Paxton in the style of a regency town house on the site of the former Globe Hotel (according to a blue plaque on the wall). This is a deceptively large bar comprising several sections. The comfortable sofa seated lounge near the front is decorated by framed caricatures of folk in their day, whereas the rest is more basically furnished leading to a games area at the rear with old brewery memorabilia.”


The side drinking area has a sign outside stating Griffin’s Bar? Not been able to fine out about this –  a family run independent they seem to have a Cornish theme to their Cask offer – on my visit Sharps Atlantic and Doombar – along with St Austell Tribute – you can guess my choice and a very good couple Tributes were had in the rear bar.




Best of the rest 

Cove Inn – more of a bistro than Pub and the Molson Coors T Bar is the only beer option – think I went for a drinkable Guinness in the end – food good and not to badly prized but probably not the place to pop in for a drink around peak meal times and not the kind of place where you can stand at the bar.  


The Lifeboat Tavern – very central and usually a good throng sat outside – worth going in to have a look at the front bar – made out of an old rowing boat – do have a couple of handpumps – the ever present Doom Bar and a pump labelled as Cwrw Tenby  - which according to What Pub is rebadged Hancocks HB a 3.6% session beer. A common back story re Hancocks Brewery for some reason I always though they were Midlands based – but the brewery was based in Cardiff  and for some years they were Wales' biggest brewer, the brewery was founded by William Hancock in , bought out by Bass in 1968, Brains bought Hancock's in 1999, but initially Bass kept the rights to the brands, Brains then took the brand back to Cardiff but then Hancocks branded beers were brewed by Coors Brewers at their Burton plant under license from Interbrew UK. In about 2016 production moved back to Brains. But it now looks like Hancocks HB is brewed by Glamorgan Brewing Co in Llantrisant – though Untapped still as it down as brewed by Molson Coors in Tadcaster – bit of a mystery.



Three Mariners and The Tavern are both on St Georges Street, again very central to the town – On George and Bar 10 are also on this street, beer available in both though Coors Keg offer again (Bar10 does still have Worthies Cream Flow if you fancy a trip down memory lane but nit sure how much of it they sell). The Tavern is a free house that that tends to offer Sharps on Cask – Three Mariner both are quite lively – Karaoke, live music most clientele tucking into continental lagers  brewed in Burton or Tadcaster – The Mariners does have at least on Keg Tenby beer on offer.



Also on the far end of St Georges Street is a quirky, if dark and dank, pub The Bush  - literally built within the Town walls indeed the entrance on South Parade is through the Walls a next to Tenby landmark the 5 arches – which is fairly easy to recognise. What Pub report that at least 2 cask ales on – including a Tenby beer – though no sign of these on my visit.

The Bush next to the Five Arches


The side door of the Bus in the Town Wall
 



The Twisted Shamrock is another ‘dark and dank pub a bit further up the parade – situated on one of

the intriguing passage that go through the wall and meet up with upper and lower Frog street (told you Tenby was quirky)- definitely not a place for a quiet pint of real ale with the paper – I’ll share the description from Pubgalore.co.uk 

This is a small bar tucked down an alleyway. It's a long narrow split level room with pool and darts on the lower level and the bar on the upper level. There are TVs everywhere.

The bar has a limited choice of mainstream keg stuff. I had a pint of Stowford Press cider which was quite uninspiring. The only good thing here was that some decent background music was playing. I wouldn't return.

I have also seen it billed as having the cheapest beer in Tenby so maybe worth a visit


Other pubs/drinking venues on Frog Street (The best at either end really the Tap n Tan and the Crown) include 


The busiest always seemed to be the Rugby Club – with its large outdoor seating area rammed pretty
much all day every day -  Tenby United RFC Social Club is open to all – lots of screens showing sports, Brains Bitter and Doom Bar on cask – serves food from Breakfast onwards.





The Normandie
– Hotelly/foody spot but nice bar area and at least one ‘macro’ cask on the bar.


The Normandie also has a door through the Wall 


The Coach and Horses – Tenby’s oldest pub which makes you wonder why it painted bright yellow – certainly stands out and there is an interesting mural on the South side explaining that Dylan Thomas once stayed there and got hammered – Doom Bar on the bar and Thai food a speciality


Billy Can on lower Frog (on the way to the crown) modern bistro/craft bar – this was the former British Legion Club transformed into a modern Bistro – though one of the walls commemorates the building’s military past and the name is said to be linked as well – armed forces being the foremost users of billycans. You can just drop in for a drink and WhatPub mentions 2 hand-pumps but I just saw Neck Oil and Lugnitas that seem to be permanents on Keg(some of the publicity pics show Hobgobby goblin and Sharps Sea Fury on handpull)  – though its is again mainly food orientated as in many Tenby spots you are unlikely t o get a walk up table during feeding times 

Mentioned in the intro above – a very modern ‘Waters Edge’ complex down on the edge of South Beach  – a mix of residential apartments, bar/restaurant and Beer Shack – Salty’s Beach Bar and Restaurant offers some good sea food (can highly recommend the mussels and prawns) offers limited choice of Molten Coors Macros – but the advantage of taking your pint onto the beach and reasonably priced around £4:50 for a cider/Atlantic pale- research suggest this was originally a Brains Brewery outlet – but with Marston taking over their estate guessing it was an early victim of post take over rationalisation.

And finally – wished I’d gone here but the brother in law bit of a local steered me away – at the very top of Frog Street is the Red Lion Hotel – with a very enticing door to the lounge – with an interesting Stage Door Café etched window – its does look like its closed from the outside – though a Molson Coors neon sign shines brightly from one of the side window – worth a check in on Trip advisor to get a feel for the place. Most saying you have the choice of just 2 beers – Worthys cream flow or Guinness, others talk about bottles of lager who use by date is the week after – I'm defiantly going in there next time I’m in Tenby to give a proper review.W hat Pub gives a little more info- The Stage Door takes its name from the Old playhouse opposite, now Poundland. Shabby chic interior with dark wood paneling.


Whats Pub also list the following possibilities in Tenby 

Cube – in the central area just down from Tesco Express – family orientated no real ale

Clarence House Hotel – on eof the grand Victorian multi coloured hotels on the Esplanade over looking South Beach – large hotel lounge that welcomes non residents and usually offers a Tenby brew – also has a very nice beer garden across the road on the cliff edge – with an outdoor bar in the summer months – a very pleasant place to sit and drink if you can get a table (especially after a walk up from the beach)

Fourcroft Hotel – this one over looks the North Beach – Hollywood Bar again open to non residents 

Evergreen Inn – in a row of cottage son the Green as you come into Tenby – more of a back street local – Banks and Hobgoblin listed as their regular beers – it does come up as Marstons managed pub (possibly Ex Brains) so other beers may be on offer.


Really enjoyed my week in Tenby and definitely a place I would recommend and go back to – we didn’t leave the town all week and didn’t use the car – though we were blessed with great weather – everything is walkable – the one big supermarket Sainsbury’s on the edge of town had a great selection of welsh beer – I picked very reasonably pries (around £1.80) bottles of Gower Gold Glamorgan Welsh Pale (and a couple of Proper Jobs!)  and of course having tow cracking but subtly different breweries in the town is also a great feature 


Iechyd da! (Yaki Da!)