Taking on Storm Eunice in Dracula’s town

Taking on Storm Eunice in Dracula’s town 

 

A mini MalTravAle ramble around Whitby on the day Storm Eunice hit our shores, had planned to meet up with brother Nick in Whitby – Nick had suggested an ambitious   11 mile plus trek to Robin Hoods Bay and back via a number of pubs on the Cinder Track in Stainsacre and Hawsker. However the forecast whilst less severe for the North Yorks coast than the rest of the country, was for wind and rain for most of the afternoon we agreed on a shorter circular route to The Windmill at Stainsacre, with a possible extension to the Hare & Hounds in Hawsker and a return via road and or Cleveland way via Whitby Brewery.

 

Setting off late morning, we headed up along the river in very fair weather – the literal calm before the storm?

 

As church street transforms to Spital Bridge the road move slightly away from the Esk and has a steady incline – one or two very fine house up here that we guessed would have belonged to salty sea captains of the past. Spital Bridge appears to be a very old street name a Spittalle-brigge is recorded in 1540. The suggestion is that it relates to an early hospital – a bit more research brings up more detail “ its name coming from the leper hospital built in 1109 by the first Abbot of Whitby”

 

A fair pull up to the main Whitby to Scarborough which has just come over the new bridge to the right, continuing up Larpool Lane, passing Whitby Cemetery on the left we leave the house and buildings and strike out down a country lane – with the first glimpse of the impressive 13 red brick spans of the Larpool viaduct on our left and our entry to the Cinder track – the former track bed Of the railway that from 1885 until it’s closure in 1965 took goods and passengers up and down the line from Scarborough to Whitby.

 

Nick’s a bit of a birder and just has he commented that there appeared to be a lot of birdy action about he spotted a greater spotted woodpecker – we spent a good 5 minutes watching it work up and down a tree – tried to get a photo but didn’t really do justice to such a lovely bird. 

 

We arrived at the cinder track as the lane got tot the top of the hill and then descended down to Ruswarp – where there is a fine pie shop and a pub The Bridge Inn – as the weather was still very fine we had a quick sort-tee over the viaduct to take in the views back towards whitby and the harbour mouth, with the Abbey up on the left and our intended destination Whitby Brewery just behind.

The Cinder track does go all the way to Scarborough and is popular with cyclists and walkers – we met a steady mix of dog walkers and couple – it quite a pull up from Whitby – distant moors vistas to the right and the Potash mine up ahead. This area has a number of potash mines and it is and has been quite an important part of Whitby’s economy – used mainly as an agricultural fertiliser Potash is a potassium-rich salt that is mined from underground deposits formed from evaporated sea beds millions of years ago.

 

We stayed on the track steadily climbing for a around 30 minutes – a very nice walk with good views ad for most of te route we had it to ourselves - the Village of Stainsacre came into view and we also picked up the traffic noise once again from the A171 heading south to Scarborough – we dropped off the track, walking back underneath and arrived at te very welcoming Windmill Inn – with perfect timing back on 12 when it was due to open – outer door was open but the inner door would not let us pass – just at that minute a car arrived and out-jumped a Windmill hoody wearing bar lady – are you opening at 12? Nick asked – to be met with a cheery yep when I get in we will – so we were the first in, though the pub’s boxer dog had already taken up residence on a nice bench by an already roaring fire.

 

A nice bar – a choice of Wainwright or Theakstone’s best we plumed for one of each and very glad to report despite being the first out of the pump both were on good form. What Pub gives the following description Attractive pub in an attractive village with stone flags and a real fire near the cycle route and walkway to Whitby – which is a sound summary.

 

Just as we finished our pints a few spots of rain began to hit the pub windows – an ominous sign of what was to come – we debated just staying and digging in at the Windmill, we agreed that the potential extension to Hawkser was no longer on and we should perhaps head back towards Whitby and take what ever Storm Eunis was going to throw at us.

 

Heading up through the village we went back over the Cinder Track and dropped down to cross the A171 and head up Summerfield Road towards All Saints Church – a strange looking beast that reminded me of the churches in Normandy - Hawsker cum Stainsacre All Saints Church is a listed building which was built in the late 18^th century, with a primary school just across the road.

The rain now was becoming pretty persistent. So rather than trek the fairly sodden looking fields to pick up the cliff path back to Whitby we decided to slog it up Hawkser Lane – passing a number of caravan parks and self catering cottage as well as the bleakly named Poverty Cottage again with its own adjacent caravan field. The weather was now closing in – the Abbey looming ahead in the murk.

 

We had both, independently, stocked up on Botham’s pork pies for our ramble – Botham Bakers are another whitby legend  - perhaps better known for their Lemmon Buns and various version of Yorkshire Brack – but they make exceedingly good pork pies – so armed with tow a piece we ate our first on the way back to Whitby – the 2^nd was devoured upon leaving Whitby brewer at little later (and lower down)  

We were now entering what felt like the eye of the storm with near horizontal rain – we came across a stricken black headed gull – wondered if it had damaged a wing – but just appeared to be knackered - Nick put it in the hedge bottom to shelter it out of the rain and hopefully regather its strength. Not really an enjoyable experience – head down and battle on against te wind and rain with the occasional glance up to see if the Abbey ruins ahead were getting any closer, which they eventually did and as we breasted the final hill to get a glimpse of Whitby’s West Cliff and a glimmer of blue sky in the distance.

 

It was starting to ease off as we arrived at the brewery, thankfully it was relatively quiet and warm – so a seat and a pint inside was in great need – a little disappointing on the beer choice – only 3 of their beers on cask and none of my personal faves ; Blonde and Gold – we opted for 2 pints of Saltwick Nab 4.2% - the Brewery’s own description:  A full bodied dark ruby ale with a pleasantly fruity finish. A generous helping of crystal malt adds body, filling out the fruitiness of the Aurora and East Kent Golding hops and rounding off this well balanced best bitter.

Coats off and a chance to drip dry – though within minutes a the sun reappeared and blue skies lit the abbey has we sat and supped – the first one went down very quickly so we decided to try the Whaler next- a similar pint to Nab but with a hint on Citrus – probably my favourite of the two.   

The brewery’s own description A fruity bitter with a malty, citrus flavour and a not too intense bitter finish. The combination of both East Kent and Styrian Golding hops give Whitby Whaler a pleasantly fruity full flavour. This beer should be quaffed heartily.

With the sun doing a nice job drying out various items of clothing in the brewery window but with a few clouds accumulating over the moors we decided to hotfoot it down the cliff and back into town, we walked passed the Abbey entrance and St Marys but missed put out the famous 199 steps and took the less used Caedmon’s trod which brings you out further down the town and misses out the busy old town.

 

A quick change in the digs and then having ticked off The Angel (Wetherspoons), Arch n Abbey, Little Angel and the Fleece (handily right opposite the cottage we were staying in) we decided to mainly concentrate on the East (old side) of town for our early evening crawl.

But I wanted to get Nick into the newish (well its been there since 2016 which is newish in Whitby terms) Waiting Rooms micro pub based in the very aesthetically pleasing Whitby Station(unfortunately out f season for steam trains) – I’ve really enjoyed my past visits there but Nick yet to get – we also picked up that the couple currently running are selling up – advertised at around £83k. 

I think this is a great little boozer – always a good range of ales and ciders on though they don’t sell any soft drinks. Felt a bit more back to normal with a full set of tables and ex NAFI chairs which excited Nick – the last few times i’ve been in it was still under covid regs so a lot fewer tables – it was pretty full for a Friday teatime. It doesn’t open till 4pm so being a tad early so we popped in the nearby Wetherspoons to use up a couple more of our CAMRA 50p vouchers – the day before we had had to start the session with a 6.6% Exmoor Beast, as their other non-macro casks had just gone off – thankfully tonight a far more sensible 4.5% Augustinian from the Nethergate Brewery in Suffolk was our bargain £2 pint

 

Through use of the 1/3^rd bats we managed to sample pretty much all the beers in the Waiting Room – they had a couple of Great Newsome beers on we started with Sleck dusters – and then Bootleg IPA, Whose a Cheeky Monkey (my Favourite) Parkway Brewing from Somerset and Dark Angel Stout from Durham brewery – they seem to pop up a lot in Whitby micro’s 

 

Needing sustenance – we only had the Bothams Pork pies all day we decided to walk through the Old Town and head to one of our Whitby faves – the Duke of York at the foot of the aforementioned 199 steps – as twilight was upon us it was a lovely walk through the now quiet cobbles and we were in luck as just on entering a window table over looking the harbour was available – so fish n chips, pints of Ossett Blond and Whitby Jet Black were well received. 

Our wander back took in the Black Horse Inn, another old favourite, its was a bit full so couldn’t get in the lovely front snug but sat opposite the Yorkshire Tapas board which kept us amused whist downing a pint of Hambleton  Bootleggers Pale Ale – interesting change of branding – would be difficult to now tis was a Hambleton without a closer look at the pump clip. Our final beer of the night, in a new tick for us was the Endeavour – interesting to not that both the Black Horse and the Endeavour were still running table service an both had ropes across the front doors to manage entry – a Covid keeper? The Endeavour is certainly and interesting pub – its big push is that you can take in your on fish n chips and many were doing just that – pint of Wychwood Dirty Tackle was an interesting end to the evening.

 

Another grand day – just under 10 miles of walking 22,725 steps – a number of new pubs ticked off and just into double figures of pints – withstanding the our of very wetness heading towards the brewery we had also managed to skirt mots of what Storm Eunis appeared to have thrown at the rest of the country