Pub hunting in ancient Yorkshire villages and York’s back streets

Pub hunting in ancient Yorkshire villages and York’s back streets

A train trip back to the ancestral home in Yorkshire meant a few hours in York to kill and for once all the MalTravAle podcast crew diaries aligned so I would it was agreed that son and I would put our late morning hours in the hands of Bruce and driver Dave and we would then meet brother Nick, a little later, in a pub somewhere near the the Railway station.

And so it began - a stress free rail trip from Stoke via Manchester, using split my ticket app had knocked a fair few quid off the ticket price but meant a short wait and change of train in Huddersfield - unfortunately a bit early for either of the pubs that but Rees the station in Huddersfield. On arriving at a rainy York we were ushered into Dave's waiting are we shot off towards Yorks South Bank    

York’s,  South Bank oft described by estate agents as a Goldilocks neighbourhood where everything’s just right. Tucked behind the racecourse, these long rows of terraced houses would once have housed Yorks workers who would head off to Chocolate factories and carriage works every day - but of recent times, the area has become rather gentrified and is, currently the place to live in York.

A trip to Knavesmire butchers for a sample of their hot beef sandwiches (hot pies and peas also offered) looks to be a community gem the shop split in two selling a fantastic array of meat one side and a takeaway counter for pies and sandwiches on the other side, outside there are trestles full of vegetables and whilst we were there was a constant stream of folk visiting both sides.

We were then off past the race course down twisty lanes and wide horizons, passing through doomsday villages in an area that is a somewhat of a forgotten corner of Yorkshire. In a triangle of land between Selby to East and Tadcsater and York to the north and south.

The village names of the area give a timeline of  Yorkshires long history and heritage 

Acaster Malbis  from the Roman castra meaning military camp  indicating that a Roman  army may once have been based here. The village is mentioned in the Doomsday Book of 1086 as "Acastre".The "Malbis" is derived from the Norman Malbysse or De Malebys family. Malbis was a Norman personal name which in French means "very swarthy".

Appleton Roebuck - derives its name from the Anglo-Saxon meaning a farm where apple trees grew and, from the fourteenth century, when it was owned by a man called Rabuk

Ulleskelf - Viking in origin-possibly banks of the river  (Ulleskelf Arms  not visited yet)

'Saxton' another village mentioned in the Domesday Book where it recorded  as Saxtun. Derived  from the Old English Seax-tūn, meaning 'town or settlement of the Saxons' - the bloody battle of Towton( took place on the edge of the village victims are buried in the village church the impressive All Saints. This particular battle, one of the many in the Wars of the Roses, has the dubious distinction of being probably the largest and bloodiest battle on English soil". 

The two on our hit list, were Appleton Roebuck and Saxton however despite the website saying open at 12pm on weekend we pulled into an empty and quiet car park on spying the landlady we enquired opening times and were told to come back at 2pm - as it was around 12:40 not sure how we would have entertained ourselves in this small compact and sleepy village. So we set of to Saxton about 15 mins drive away - and whilst we were a little disappointed at our initial blank things soon looked up as we passed back over the east coast rail line we saw a lot of cars parked and folk out with cameras.

So we all piled out of the car just in time to see the White Rose in full steam hurtling towards York, this apparently was a special Valentine’s charter London Kings Cross to York and back.For those inclined the locomotive was a Black 5 No.45212

So the first stop was the sleepy village of Saxton and the ancient Greyhound. Perpendicular to the road suggesting it may have started life as a farmhouse rather than pub. This Grade ii listed building was built in the 13th century – I note it was formally listed in CAMRA’s National Inventory for pubs with outstanding interiors  - not sure what’s its done to get unlisted it still looks untouched and outstanding to me.

 

It’s a three room pub with tiny bar at the far end – we were instructed not to use the ‘posh’ middle room (lots of red velvet) due to the fact I had walking shoes on – though we had only walked from the car parked directly on the road outside. It was ticking over for a Saturday lunchtime a gaggle of chatty locals sat in the bar and a group of local lads in the larger room with an open fire well ablaze and thats where we settled – have got to say, that I not always a fan of Old Brewery Bitter – but encouraged by Bruce this was a stunning pint and even managed a 2nd.

A little research found that the pub did begin life as a farmhouse/barn and was first licenced in 1871. It is only recently that a cellar was added in 1983 (maybe a linked to the stunning cask beer) and previously was locally famous for its behind the bar stillage. Outdoor loos lend to the vintage vibe though you do get a cracking view of the very impressive parish Church All Saints which is Grade I listed which looms over the shoulder of the pub.

Despite the name of the pub Tripadvisor review suggest its not very dog friendly and as a Sam's pub it had the usual threats re use of mobile phones or bad language, 

                          View from the loo - All Saints

 

 It’s not changed much a bit less hairy in 2025 - Picture courtesy of Tadcaster historical Society

After a couple of very enjoyable pints it was back in the car to retrace our steps back to Appleton Roebuck.

Appleton is  actually a village with two Sam Smiths pubs,but unfortunately the Shoulder of Mutton has been closed for some time now, another covid victim from, it’s still ‘live’ Facebook page suggests it had been a lively and well used pub.

The Roebuck at Roebuck 

It is likely that both sheep and apples may have proliferated in the area in time long gone due to the presence of a 12 Century Priory founded as a nunnery by Alice de St Quintin in the nearby and straightforward in a Yorkshire way named village Nun Appleton. A victim of Henry VIII’s dissolution the nunnery was closed and site acquired by local gentry the Fairfax family, it grew into a fine estate, the original mansion build by the Fairfaxe’s was replaced by a Georgian one. In 1920 it was bought by a Bradford industrialist Sir Benjamin Dawson, who had made his wealth through a textile business that specialised in cashmere. In 1982 Dawson’s daughter put the Hall up for sale and Humphrey Smith – yes that one, bought the Hall and estate for £1.2 million, for a while the hall fell into disrepair and was all fenced off, bridal ways were closed – reports suggest renovation work started on the property in 2024. 

The Roebuck Inn is Grade II listed being built in the late 18th Century. In local style it’s a pinkish brown brick building with pantile roof. It’s a pub of fires – there are three in the drinking area alone including one rather impressive Yorkshire range as you walk in through the rear entrance – interesting rear of the pub with carpark and what looks and feels like the original burgage plot – which was currently full of mole hills much delight for our driver David who is a keen gardener and set off with trowel and carrier bag.

The pub only opens Thursday to Sunday at the moment and only later in the day, as a result they no longer serve cask OBB but this does mean that hard to find Sovereign on keg is offered along Keg OBB. We had a warm welcome from the barmaid, there was a regular sat at the bar and another couple in . We managed to sit right next to the lit Yorkshire range in the rear room – can imagine walking or cycling here in the summer and enjoying an evening sat out the front watching the village life go by or not.

Back into York to meet brother and our Sam’s hatrick was one our more regular haunts; the Crystal Palace on Holgate Road. With the usual Sam Smiths understated signage it can be easy to walk past this pub which does look residential blended with the rest of what’s is a very splendid row of Georgian town houses. II notice the landlady has pit a sign out on the pavement to temp passerbys in 

This is a traditional pub with a 2 room layout and central bar. The left is the bar which as you would expect is minimal and basic to the right a very plus lounge which is more a high end hotel or gentleman's club style room. We tend to frequent the lounge and a well banked fire added to the welcome, no cas old brewery available to day so we went 9n the dark mild, one of our party also tried the zero percent nut brown ale (he was driver for the day) and reported it very good - interesting that despite its very traditional image Sam’s does move with the times just without much fanfare.

Our next stop was only a short walk away over what’s known locally as the iron or metal bridge. Holgate Bridge is a sight, made from green iron girders, the current bridge built in 1911 is the third to be built taking the A39 out of York city centre and over the East Coast rail mainline. It recently had to be raised by 12 inches to allow for the new electric pylons when the East Coast line was electrified in the late 80’s

The Volunteers Watson street Holgate, there is a short cut from the station 

An online description of this pud sums it up well: 

What looks like a backstreet locals pub, is, in reality a real ale destination pub

A splendid pub just off the main road, very traditional and with a good range of ales. It is U-shaped round the bar and the red carpets and deep carmine walls with low lighting give a curiously red feel until you get used to it. An impressive row of handpumps offers a selection of mainly Yorkshire ales. We parted company with Dave  and Bruce and we set off back into town with a final hour to burn.

The Ackhorne, off Micklegate is one of our regulars it always feels like you are walking back 100 yards as you walk up the cobbled St Martins Lane to this 18th century little gem, as always it was pretty much every table full on a Saturday afternoon- always feature local Ainsty and Rudgate beers.

                                  Up the Cobbles to the Ackorne

The name by the way, is the old English spelling of Acorn, pronounced by locals as ‘Ak Horn’

We needed to head back in the direction of the rail station and meet sister in law, so headed next for a bit of a macro experience at Harkers in St Helens Square (across from Bettys) whilst the bouncers and lager boyes means it’s slightly out of our normal comfort zone,  it does have two things in its favour: the buildings heritage and secondly the Nicholson app and loyalty card.

In terms of heritage this building does have a bit and there are many fine features inside and out, the pubs website guides you through the building’s past 

The city's historic Roman Praetorian Gate stood across where Harkers is now. Probably rebuilt around 300AD, the gate was the main entrance to the City of York. Part of this structure is exposed in the basement of our pub. Our building was designed in 1840 as the head office for the Yorkshire Insurance Company, with the building finally completed in 1847. Our name 'Harkers' is taken from 'Harker's Hotel', which stood in nearby St. Helen's Square.

The Nicholsons App is quite a useful addition to the mobile, with regular promotions and a free pint for every 4 purchased (though this is often limited to their house pale ale which can be hard to find - but as it’s brewed by St Austell usually a decent drop) - this weeks offer was a free whiskey and ginger which we took advantage of alongside pints of Leeds pale.

We just had time for a quick nip into York Tap in the station with its usual cornucopia of beer choice, there is something rather special about sipping a beer in the Taps platform beer garden underneath York Station’s and a fitting end to a cracking day discover some new pubs and a return to a couple of favourites.

 View from York Tap