Searching for some northern spirit in Silk Town

 Searching for Northern spirit in Silk Town

My New Year’s resolution for this year was to make a better use of my precious weekends - a desk based job with a degree of stress all week, the need to get out and be more active and the inspiration from one of my blog regulars Shouting from the shed who author regularly expounds the doorstop miles and the idea of taking mini adventures in your own back yard.

A recent chat at the end of our beery podcast (maltravale), where I floated a possible trip back to Manchester, as it had been a good 18 months since we last drank our way around Cottonopolis, prompted brother to state that he would much rather have return visit to Macclesfield - the focus of our Podcast Episode 55 when we had discovered a cornucopia of great beery venues - something for every one micros, solid old antiquated and hipster new brewery taps. 

A Northern trains flash sale offering stupidly low prices. (£3.40 for a day's return!) and having read good things about a newish brewery tap that the under the radar Bollington Brewery had opened and the chance being sole to include a couple of pubs that we had missed out on our previous visit including one that must have one of the best murals in the UK beer world - here’s a tease 

  

Unfortunately a couple of the venues we had visited back in March 2024 have closed - a reflection of the perilous state of the trade - both the Wet led and treacle would have been on my must return/include list for a trip to Macc. I was very glad to see that just down from where the Wet Lad bar was on the very quaint Castle Street N Carter and Co family butchers and fine purveyors of pork pies was still hanging on - though 2 small pies for a £5 did remind me I was in Cheshire.

Much of this trip had me pondering about Northerness - I have recently read a couple of rather good books that delved into the matter. Being born in Middlesbrough and raised in rural North Yorkshire with parents from both sides of the Pennines (I know this is starting to sounds like one of those Royal Navy adds) but having spent all my working life in a what is best the North Midlands I do I often get Northern pangs and i often jumped on a train or bus to head to places like Macclesfield for Buxton to bath in what feels to me a little spiritual northern refreshment - for Buxton it's probably the trip over the moors which reminds me of the road to Whitby with Macclesfield it’s Mill chimneys, sooted bricks and steep roads up form the ancient transport channel of rail, road and Canal.

An earliest start meant I arrived at a cold and quiet Macclesfield Station despite being in quite a regal setting in its amphitheatre with the parish church leering above and a gaggle of pubs facing you across a broad approach, the actual station is a bit of a let down  no Victoria splendour here, just a dour low level functional transport hub. One of its web descriptions sums it up well: it was rebuilt in the brutalist style of architecture; the beauty of the building was perceived to be its very functionality and its design follows the Modernist approach.

A little early for most of the town's bars, opening times which all appeared to be in sync with 12 o clock openings, meant only one thought was to head to Spoons. About a 10 minute walk and set on Park Green this was one of the venues we had missed in our last. Is it when we opted to go to the rather swish Red Willow Brewery tap across the road ( indeed Park Green provides a mini crawl with no or 5 bars nestled cheek by Jowell together.

Silk Town Spoons the former home of the towns Acquiring Useful Knowledge Society

This is one of those interesting spoons which the company is rightly praised for the role in preserving so many of our iconic and historical buildings. Its name The Society Rooms gives a hint of its philanthropic past. Formerly the home of the Macclesfield Acquiring Useful Knowledge Society (an early version of a mechanic institute) which was established in 1850 in a building which had originally been built as the vicarage of St Micahel’s church, indeed it sits beside Parsonage Street.

The Useful Knowledge Society's aim  was to teach working class men the 3Rs, it later housed a school of design and a technical school was added in 1900, it was supported by a number of Macclesfields businesses and mill owners who saw a need for a more educated workforce. Macclesfield had long served as a market town for east Cheshire, but after the first silk mill was established in 1743, it quickly industrialised into the leading English hub for silk production. By 1850, there were 169 silk companies operating, marking the peak of the town’s dominance in the industry.

Further reading suggests that Macclesfield was a hot bed of philanthropy especially based around non conformitar. At least 78 Macclesfield institutions were founded with voluntary funding in the mid to late 1800’s  fell into four broad categories - religion, education, public services and public amenities. The religious institutions included 61 churches, chapels, Sunday schools, day schools and missions. This high number was generally due to the separation of various sects which resulted in a complete set of new organisations.

It’s a very nice building, and the Wetherspoons has several different eating areas. It was quite busy for an early Saturday, but when a Macclesfield Man City supporters’ club used it as a pick‑up point and a couple of coaches turned up, the pub virtually emptied. I managed to get a  nice window seat which allowed me to watch the world go by and oversee the coming and going of a large carp park which again is a luxury few Spoons have. A good range of ales were on offer and after loading up with a trad breakfast - with haggis n side(It was Burns week at Spoons) I did follow with a very nice pint of Odin - a new one for me from Brightside Brewing Company from up the road in Greater Manchester. Review suggest this is generally a quite Spoons - it is a slight walk from the town centre and is certainly surrounded by a number of other beers - definitely worth a visit ad a lovely building to look around/  

As it was now heading towards midday and as the opening time for most MACC bards I headed up what I would call the main high street towards the centre of town, had a general mooch about - I again had to miss out the delights of he Shamrick, Maccs Irish pub which looks lively, though ha not yet opened - I also put my nose through th door of the Bate Hall up in the central pedestrianised  civic area  the town’s oldest public house, dating back to the 15th century. Whilst there are some hints of heritage in the exterior I think the term insensitive refurbishment sums up the current ambience - though this may be a disservice and i do need to go in and visit on my next visit - i had a more reliable heritage pub in the cross hairs though did take a detour to cath the Cockin Treacle pub though thai again was solidly shut at 12 on a Saturday lunchtime and reports suggest that this may be permanent which is a shame with such an elegant building

Found along the winding cobbled streets of the Castle Quarter, the Castle has regularly been named the best pub in Cheshire. It certainly boasts one of the best chocolate box settings. It’s ‘What Pub’ listing builds the anticipation even more 

An untouched, timeless and now rare example of an old-fashioned town pub and has been identified by CAMRA as having a nationally important historic pub interior. With whitened brick this 18th century pub tucked away on a  cobbled street. It probably started life as late 18th century cottages which were subsequently remodelled. The quaint exterior belies its inner proportions, which are equally charming. There are leaded lights, moulded plaster ceilings, copper-topped tables, bell pushes dotted throughout its warren of little rooms. The star feature, however, is the wonderful hatch bar reminiscent of a traditional, bowed, shop window.

The Castle pub dates back to 1721 and has been a famed ale house for 300 years and that age means the good and great have popped in for a drink including the Beetles in one of the rear rooms -lays homage to Mac's very own music god Ian Curtis,of Joy Division.Have been in here on the last trip, when it had been extremely busy, i was hoping to catch it early and hopefully geta seta in the renowned from snug (very reminiscent of the Blue Bell front snug in York). I think I was the first customer on and had the front snug all to myself - a smaller cask offer that i had reminded form our last visit - i went for a very nice light pale Turncoat from Wheetwood. It was a very pleasant 20 minute or so sat in front of the fire reading the Cheshire CAMRA magazine which would guide me to another new venue later in the afternoon

        

But my next venue would require a stretch of the legs down the cobbles back to the station and along Sunderland Street then up and over the inner ring road and higher still up Brook Street - very much reminding me macc is positioned at the bottom of quite a Steep Valley with road, canal railway all squeezed together in the V. AS the sweat was starting to drip, a welcome sign and arrow directing me to the Bollington Brwery and Tap was a welcome site - tucked away down a back street this former bakery is anothe fone buuildingtaht has had a lot of love and care.

A spacious venue set out on the ground floor with brewery to the right and tnen a family room and then the tap room to the left and then an Asian street food offer up stairs. The tap room was relatively quiet on arrival but it did slowly feel up as the afternoon moved on, got to say the young lady running the bar on her own was a real star, efficient, welcoming,  informative and kept all with full glasses and all in all it’s a really nice venue ~ the beer was spot really good range of cask and keg showcasing the Bollington range a few regional guests as well. Was able to mooch around the brewery part. Which was clinically clean, though didn’t appear to be much action guess they brew on the week. Spent an enjoyable hour or so sampling most of the cask a a little dissa[painting they don’t do thirds or paddles bit of a missed opportunity to keep all the lines flowing. I particularly liked the family room/area in between the bar and brewery areas - this place is definitely worth the walk up the hill (there appeared to be parking available in the surrounding streets), there was also a nice patio outdoor drinking space on the side of the tap room - the beer wasn’t bad either.

So I next headed back down Brook Street, taking time to take in views of the townscape - it’s amazing how Macc has retained much of its Victorian roofscape there ain’t many tower blocks or 70’s concrete monstrosities. I was also slowed by the cornucopia of building styles and little cobbled side streets.   was heading back to Sunderland Street to visit a bar I’d seen and walked passed a number of times - and potentially the one with the best mural in the country which you see straight away when you turn the corner of Sunderland Street. 

The Snow Goose Alpine bar and mural is a bit of a landmark in Macc (though there is a trail of murals and art works around the town. The town council provide a nice little guide and map https://www.macclesfield-tc.gov.uk/wp-content/uploads/2023/11/Macc-Art-Trail-updated.pdf. The snow Goose is number 6 on the trail, there are another 8 or so murals on Sunderland Street.

The Snow Goose describes itself as an eccentric café-bar, and it certainly features an eclectic mix of old furniture, beer casks, and brightly coloured cushions, among other unique details. Opened in March 2011, its theme focuses on mountains—especially the Alps. While this theme isn’t immediately evident in the downstairs bar where drinks are served, apparently the first floor offers a rolling vista of mountain photography on a flat screen TV.

Regular ales are from Storm Brewery (approximately 400m away), and others from Wincle, another local brewery.  On my visit there were two wince and Storm Bosley Cloud - I have read that it acts is the unofficial tap of Storm Brewing (founded 1998) which is located just around the corner by the riverside.don’t mind a Wincle beer but feel they don’t travel well and seem to taste much better at the brewery which is well worth a visit though a little far from civilisation-I have to say this was the poorest beer of the day - slight vinegar suggested it was near its end but it was one of those where it looked ok and as usual left me with that conundrum of should i take it back or keep drinking and of course it did the later. The bar had been set high at Bollington so maybe my taste buds were just over sensitive.

With legs still aching from my yomp up and down Brook Street and the need to pick somewhere sensible to meet up with the wife and sister in law, who had decided last minute to drive out to Macclesfield. I head back around the corner to Park Green, I had suggested meeting them in the rather posh bistro style bars of Red Willow tap or Bollingtons the fountain. But whilst enjoying my earlier pint in the castle I had picked the Stockport area CAMRA newsletter and in it read about Alfred’s in Park Green being awarded a recent pub of the month award - I thought it was worth a visit..

Apparently this is Hydes brewery of Salford most southern tier house - and a great addition to what is now a bit of a beery Mecca with 4 very good bars cheek by jowl. Two cask beers were on offer in a busy bar - very open and airy - 2 beers both new to me Hopster billed as a zesty blond ale and Lowry, a premium golden ale - I plumped for the Hopster and very nice it was at a reasonable £4:25, drunk on the rather nice front patio which was catching a watery but welcome late afternoon winter sun and a pleasant 20 mins it was until the sun disappeared behind a big black cloud. 

The arrival of wife and sister in law meant it was time to move some where a little warmer and a whole 10 yards down the road was the Redwillow taproom. Billed as a ‘Sensitive conversion of former shop premises with original windows, parquet flooring and a sympathetic bar top, contrasting with the modern look of the lighting’

This is a pleasant bar - hard to describe really lots of settees and bistro type Tarbell with the bar tucked away in the left hand corner - the bar=g ex shop windows do mean its nice and airy. A mix of cask and keg lines brewed in the brewery on the edge of town next to the railway - indeed they are one of the contracted beers served on the West Coast trains - Red Willow Tilting Ale. Initially, starting as a cask only brewery set up by a husband and wife team in 2010, you don’t tend to se their beers much elsewhere though they also have a sister tap over on Buxton in the former NatWest bank which is well worth a visit.

The final venue was literally next door in Bollington Brewery’s other Macc venue the Fountain, opened in 2021 in what was the  former Co Op store - thinks it was actually a bathroom show from priory to conversion - this is a huge space slightly more bare bones that the Redwillow but still has some nice corners and a high table and stools in the big windows where you can watch the works go by on the ubiquitous Sunderland Street. A busy bar with a good range of well kept Bollington Beers. 

All in all a grand day out and rekindled my good beer vibes about the  town - great to tick a couple off new bars and the brewery is definitely worth a visit. The train is a great option three different franchises run on this line so there are usually good deals to find with trains literally every 15 mins and most of the venues visited are no more than 10-15 minutes walk from the station. There’s even a choice of three pubs directly across from the station if you need to wait for connections.

Celebrating Christmas 100% Lakeland

 

Grown up kids, ageing grandparents, different shifts and annual leave dates and the thought of cooking Xmas dinner for double figures in a untidy house all construed to change our family yuletide celebrations we normally have everyone round ours for the big day and then go away somewhere for Twixmas (under the arches of the Ribblehead viaduct last year - well in a converted barn a stones throw away. this year the extended family, would as soon as they finished work (3 different days), head up to the North Lakes where we could all share the big days together. Keswick was our chosen destination, not far from the M6, guaranteed fine views and a town that just happened to be crammed with pubs, 2 brewery taps and a brewery.

We were actually stopping in a very fine barn conversion in nearby Threkheld which you can walk to and back to via the old railway line or a very regular bus service. The village itself, has two pubs a yard of ale apart (well about 10 lined up end to end) they have recently come under joint ownership and do offer a choice of drinking experiences between them. 

Horse and Farrier is probably the ‘premier’ inn of this small village – a very nice tile over the front door states 1688 as the date of the building’s beginnings. Further Research suggests this was once a farm – it retains its long thin profile with a very ‘farmy’ fire range in the more ‘dining like room of this ancient pub – a Mail on Sunday Review of the pub in 2022 headlined with ‘flickering fires and labyrinth rooms’. It is a grade II listed building – but it does have a smart beer garden looking up the slopes of Blencathra and a very useful and well maintained carpark. (The Keswick to Penrith bus X5 twice an hour also handily stops in between the two village pubs)

The pubs website suggest that the farm that was prominent on the old Penrith to Keswick and Workington road was often used by travellers to water their horses and take in subsistence for themselves – the farmers realising the potential profits in hospitality  turned the farm house into a coaching inn sometime during the 1800’s. Whilst the A66 now bypasses the village and visitors whiz pass both village and pub – this is till a very popular venue.

A former Jennings Pub (The Jennings Castle logo, still stands proudly at the top of the rather nice pub sign above the front and door), it is now independently owned by the Arkley family who also own the very nearby Salutation Inn in the same village. The Jennings tie is loosely retained as they appear tied to Carlsberg Marston’s beers

I did notice during my visit a number of Lake District pubs still claiming that their beers were brewed on their doorstep by Jennings in Cockermouth – despite Carlsberg having closed the brewery in October 2022 and what’s left of the Jennings portfolio now being brewed in Burton on Trent – it’s a similar pattern with Wainwright beers as well of course – once of Thwaites now brewed by Carslberg – its heritage was never in the Lakes (Thwaites very much a Lancastrian institution with its main brewery in Blackburn and their take over of the Mitchells brewery of Lancaster in 1999)- a version of wainwright appears to be a fixture on virtually every Lake District pub – I do wonder how many people know it is liley to have been brewed in Wolverhampton these days (although the Banks Brewery is also under notice of closure)  

Back to the Horse and Farrier – this is a very smart pub with rooms which does go big on food and therefore the drinker will often be limited to the couple of high tables immediately in front of the bar – this is a dark and atmospheric pub especially on my first visit when the whole village was suffering a power cut on  late December afternoon – so candle light and hand pulled beers were the order of the day – bizarrely payment could only be taken by card as whilst the tills weren’t working the battery fed bank card reader was very much still alive.

During our visits to the pub there was a choice of 4 real ales – these remained over the same over the Christmas week and having sampled all of them the visit was a general  ‘OK’ – nothing to blow you away but they were well kept and well served – my choice was the house beer  -  Sharp Edge a 3.6% smooth bitter brewed by Marstons, - though its untapped record suggests it may morph into different styles – Zesty Pale ale and even a brett version? are listed on UT ,  The other choices on offer whilst we were there included Tirril Dungeon Ghyll Stout, Wainwrights and

A couple of pub themes were also emerging – pubs claiming a link to John Peel (The hunter nor Radio 1 DJ)  and showcasing sketches of pubs and their regulars by local artists John Wilkinson (Wilkes) who, appears to have managed to marry is love of pubs and a pint with his artistic talents.

D'ye ken John Peel?" – which translates to "Do you know John Peel?" – is a famous northern hunting song written around 1824 by John Woodward Graves in celebration of his friend John Peele   (1776–1854), a renowned fox hunter from the Lakes – difficult to find why he develop such fame – beyond the songs Wiki suggest that at least three pubs in the North West are named after some of his hunting hounds.

Threkfield - 1  Village 2 pubs

Back to the pubs – literally across the road from the H and F is their sister pub the Salutation – this was either closed or very quiet during our week in the village, whilst it is great t to see the two pubs coexisting it must be a challenge keeping both going – the Salutation or Sally is the older sister of the tow pubs, with a date of 1664 registered as it starting date as a coaching inn. This is more open plan and feels more of a drinking/locals pubs though does offer a range of food options and es pushing its takeaway service. Recently refurbished there is a large central room with a few nooks and crannies, open fire and then a conservatory style dining area. Looks to have a similar tie to Carlsberg Marston’s – whilst we were there they hade Wainwrights Gold and Wainwrights Amber available, Sharps Atlantic and the H&F’s Sharp Edge also appear to be regulars from their Untapped record. Again it was in good form though did need to ask the barmen to top up the pints we ordered.

Our first visit to a true Keswick boozer was to be on its outskirts, The Pheasant – based on the very northern edge of Keswick and just off the A66 roundabout, The Pheasant is a typical Lake district boozer – long and thin, white, retaining its Jennings legacy. Now independently owned but with a ties to Carlsberg Marstons (this will become  bit of a theme – the pubs website still claims that it features Jennings Ales brewed only 12 miles away – see below).

The Pheasant Inn - Keswick

We had booked for s Sunday lunch and was glad we had reserved as the pub was very busy during our visit, parking can be a bit of an issue – only available on road – frustratingly the café over the road has quite a large car park which was very empty throughout our time at the Pheasant you would have hoped there could have been some agreement between them. I can report that the food was very good especially, the Yorkshire puddings and beer was Ok – like many Carslberg Marston’s pubs they had their own in house Ale – Pheasant Ale a Pale Ale of 4.2% brewed by Marston’s (though I have been unable to find exactly where) – Wainwrights, Courage Directors and Hobgoblin were the other can I label macro’ offer – for such a good little boozer pity that couldn’t have at least one real Lake District brew on – especially as there is a very good brewery in the town.

Nice and cosy in the Pheasant

We choose a cracking December day for a trip into Keswick, a quick wander around Derwent Water wetted our appetite for some seasonal beers

Blue skies over Derwent Water

We started our town crawl in The Wainwright, which is strategically on the route back up from Derwent Water, along Lake Road, which is good for resting tired legs but makes it one of Keswick's busiest pubs.

A large sign outside also advertises that they do offer a 10% CAMRA discount which may also account for its regular slot in that organisation’s annual guide. Formerly the Four in Hand, it was reopened and renamed in 2015 and regularly offer up to 8 cask real ales. An L shaped bar serves what is What Pub refer to as a ‘walkers pub’ – its fairly open plan and a youthful team of staff to seem to push out a lot of drinks and food very efficiently. My choice, on this visit was a Theakston Summit – I must have been inspired by the Alfred Wainwright references that adorn the walls of the pub – don’t often see this in the Midlands and it is a thoroughly acceptable pale ale which apparently is brewed to be served extra chilled? Prices were near £5 a pint in here so the CAMRA discount was used and welcome.  

A quick hop across town – passed the seemingly never-ending que outside Old Keswickian Fish and Chip Shop – they must be good- and made a be line for Packhorse Court, this is a newish shopping/hospitality mini quarter – The Pack Horse Inn, a solid traditional Robinsons House provides the name and one side of this rather smart courtyard which is a little gem comprising of a Cheese shop, wine shop, Brewery Tap and a craft bar.

The most recent addition to the court’s menagerie is the Crooked River Brewery Tap – which opened  October 2024. 

Inside the Crooker River Tap - bit of an identikit place but nice tree!

Their website blurb outlines their story better than I can burt again note another Jenning’s link.

We are Crooked River Brewing Co; a craft beer company based on the fringe of the Lake District in West Cumbria.

Our story began in 2022 when our town’s last active brewery; Jennings announced it’s closure. This loss represented over 150 years of deep historical significance and posed a threat to the integrity of our regions brewing heritage and cultural identity.

This motivated us to step up and do something to keep that heritage alive, and so, Crooked River Brewing Co was born.

Our beer is brewed at Tractor Shed Brewing in Workington thanks to the lovely team there who gave us a place to brew, sharing our vision to see greater diversity and reputation for great locally made beer.

They still do have plans to open their own brewery in Cockermouth, but for now sate that the current economic instability of the industry makes this more of a longer term goal. They currently brew three core beers; a pacific Ale, a DDH Pale and West Coast IPA alongside limited release beers, they are currently a keg only company but have done some cask collabs with Hawkshead and Gan Yam Brew Co.

The Tap has a modern scandi vibe, lots of exposed wood, trestle tables – they do offer a couple of cask lines alongside their Keg lines – prices were probably the highest for the town – I actually went for a cask beer from their ‘home’ brewery Tractor Shed Brewing (they do have a shop and sampling bar at the brewery in Workington – check their Facebook page for opening times. A new brewery for me and a beer with another interesting name – Hoo’s thi fettle, a 4% Red Ale at a reasonable £4.40 a pint (Most of their home keg beers are £6 a pint) ((Hoo’s this fettle – Cumbrian dialect for How are you today)) – brother and I also shared a half of Crooked Blackberry Crumble Sour 4.8% and £6.50 a pint, the place was pleasantly full for a late afternoon in Twixmas with couples and groups doing lots of 1/3rds – guessing the prices and lack of Macro offer will self manage the clientele.

 

Leaving the Packhorse Court for now, it was then a quick hop back across the main road to the much anticipated trip to the Fox Tap, home of Keswick Brewery. I have previously enjoyed their beers and had read good things about this tap. 

The Fox Tap a great addition to the Keswick beer scene

Dusk was upon us and the twinkling lights of what looks like a log cabins were certainly enticing and we entered to find a full and lively tap – the main action I around the bar there is another seated area – brother who had been before said it was a little cold and isolated so we muscled into the one of the high standing table next to the bar before we managed to get on the end of one of long tap style tables – appeared to be a pleasant mix of locals and visitors imbibing – pretty much the entire range of beers was available and they were doing planks so we kicked off with a half of each of the six casks before settling on a pint each of our favourites – mine was the  Fox pale from the following choice which handily was lined up lightest to darkest across the bar

Nelson Sauvin – 3.4% part of their Hop series very light

Keswick Gold – 3.6% appeared to be one of their best sellers – a golden bitter

Thirst Christmas –  a 3.7%  seasonal mild

Thirst Noel – seasonal 6% winter warmer

Fox Pale – 4% English Pale

Fox Dark – 4% Dark Mild 

A fine offer in the Fox Tap 

All were on fine form and there was a very convivial atmosphere – though guessing it could get a little cramped if larger groups frequented there is a substantial outdoor seating area which will be great in warmer month

The brewery owned by Sue Jefferson, began brewing in 2006 using a 10-barrel plant on the site of a brewery that closed in 1897. The brewery is set up to be environmentally-friendly using sheeps wool insulation, and reducing its environmental impact, the wool from local herdwick sheep is used to insulte the thanks the tanks.

There is limited information on the original Old Brewery. Records show that an Old Brewery Co Ltd was set up and registered in September 1889 to acquire the business of Henry John Allinson. The same brewery was put up for auction 25th June 1896 along with 4 tied public houses. There appears no record from this sale but we do know the brewery went into liquidation November 1896 and was dissolved July 1907.

 

We couldn't decide - so ordered all 6 Keswick Brewery beers

One of Keswick’s local guest houses, Dalegarth House  that also produce a very informative blog gave the following on the development of Keswick brewery

Just as some of Jennings production was moving to the midlands, The Keswick Brewing Company were securing premises in the town to start production the following year. By coincidence, the premises they took over used to be a brewery back in the 1800’s. The first of their beers ‘Thirst Run’, a 4.2% golden pale ale was launched at the Dog & Gun pub and at the Keswick Beer Festival and was an instant hit. 

As time was getting on – we reluctantly relinquished our seats and headed back onto the main strip – keen to sample one of Keswick more traditional boozers that litter the area around the Moot hall  - the choice is quite phenomenal for a town of this size and again is a result of the tourist pound. Running North to South down the main shopping square of the town – probably a distance of ¼ of a mile are the following establishments

The George Hotel – one of the oldest pubs in Keswick – Marstons Pub

The Royal Oak – traditional coaching inn part of the Daniel Thwaites estate

The Pack Horse - Robinson’s

Lake Road Inn – Robinsons family type pub

The Dog and Gun – Green King traditional town boozer recently refurbished

Inn on the Square  - formerly the Queens – Café style back bar of hotel

The Golden Lion – Green King town centre pub

The Kings Arms – family run former coaching Inn Casque Mark up to 5 ales, additional sports bar in Courtyard

Oddfellows Arms – Another Marstons pub

The Skiddaw Hotel - hotel bar open to non-residents food orientated – large conservatory area straight onto square

The Bank tavern – old town boozer with cask -  Cumberland Taverns group

Ye Olde Golden Lion - bit of a mystery this one and a must check when I next visit - comes up on maps close to the back of the Skiddaw but all google searches take you to the Golden Lion in the town’s central square - if any does know if it does exist or is a ghost pub do let me know.

 

 

A festive looking Keswick town centre with a pub every 50 yards 

Our central pub of choice was one I had visited before - famous for its Goulash and weekly Pub quiz - both of which I can highly recommend. The Dog and Gun now in the Greene King fold has had a presence on the edge of Keswick's town centre since 1807.

A festive offer in the Dog and Gun - sadly no time for Goulash tonight

The Goulash link is thanks to a former Hungarian landlady - it became so popular that the dish and recipe have been continued by all subsequent owners. It was rammed and full of Cumbrians and one or two tourists full of festive spirit - despite its GK badge there was an interesting beer offer - we launched into the Theakston Legendary Beerd a 4.7% Winter Ale, which was was a new tick for us.  

The Dalegarth guest house blurb mentioned above also gives a nice intro to our last beer of the night, back into Packhorse Court and………

The Crafty Baa in Keswick is one of our favourites for a few drinks with friends. Quirky doesn’t even start to describe the decor, with a skeleton riding a bike on the ceiling, kitchenware, board games and just about everything else you can think of decorating the walls & ceilings. Decor isn’t the only thing there is plenty of though. You’ll find a vast ‘beer menu’ with a choice of 50-60 beers, lagers & ciders, some on draft and some in bottles and cans.

On to the Crafty Baa -  it had been a long night

On our visit to the Crafty Baa (back in the afore mentioned yard behind the Robinsons pub) they were offering a flight of any 3 ⅓ pints for £5:50 - being from Yorkshire we had three of the strongest 3 beers available to feel like we were getting value for money - it was pretty full of people and dogs many who had been in the Fox tap earlier.

A must visit, if you are in Keswick is the town’s Wetherspoons – just off the bottom of the main shopping street and handily next to the central car park – The Chief Justice of the Common Pleas demands your attention and not just for the name. If you enter from the main door on the snaking main road through the town centres, it may feel just like most Spoons but venture deeper or go via the rear door from the car park and you will be in for a surprise – This was formerly the town’s Police station and know court (was still in use as late as 2000)  and only became a pub in 2014. Unlike most spoons refurbs they have internally left a lot of the original features in, so you can sit an drink in the original jury rows and even eat your cut price breakfast in one of the cells – certainly another quirky Keswick experience.  

Apparently, the name Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, isn’t just linked to the building’s former function as I had  assumed – its much more complex – the story goes that when they were re building the Police station and court in 1901 –  there was an existing building on the site they came across papers and deeds which showed that this site had actually been used as the town’s workhouse in the 17th Century, the papers uncovered stated that workhouse had been founded and paid for by local grandee Sir John Bankes around 1600. Sir John was an eminent lawyer and judge, he was appointed England’s Attorney General in 1635 and then Chief Justice of the Common Pleas in 1640, one of the highest judicial offices in England

(The Attorney General is chief legal adviser to the Crown and the highest ranking of the country’s Law Officers. Sir John was Chief Justice to Charles the 1st during the English Civil war and whilst he was from a Keswick family, his family set was actually Corfe Castle in Dorset)

Workhouses or poor houses developed after the Black Death in England (1348-1362), they were institutions where those unable to support themselves financially were offered accommodation and employment. Most were employed on tasks such as breaking stones, crushing bones to produce fertiliser, or picking apart old rope to produce oakum which was used in caulking ships.

The pub is very popular – always been full to the rafters when I’ve visited – a long bar with normally a range of cask also – seems to be a regular outlet for Jaipur – for such a touristy town – its provably falls in the mid band of spoons pricing with pints around £2.90 and a trad breakfast (My usual comparison) £5.89. Interestingly we on our way home back to Staffordshire we called in the Spoons at nearby Penrith – the Dog Beck – here cask pints were £1:69 and breakfast £3:14 quite a difference despite being only 16 miles apart.

A pint in the Dock - Keswick's rather special Spoons 

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All in all Keswick is a real beery destination with a really broad drinking scene pretty much something for every one - it’s a shame many of the pubs boast about local ale but actually serve stuff brewed in Burton and for now Wolverhampton but there are local breweries that seem to be doing Ok. We are having a serious look at the much heralded Keswick Beer Festival in the summer and will be looking to get back as soon as possible.