Grown up kids, ageing grandparents, different shifts and annual leave dates and the thought of cooking Xmas dinner for double figures in a untidy house all construed to change our family yuletide celebrations we normally have everyone round ours for the big day and then go away somewhere for Twixmas (under the arches of the Ribblehead viaduct last year - well in a converted barn a stones throw away. this year the extended family, would as soon as they finished work (3 different days), head up to the North Lakes where we could all share the big days together. Keswick was our chosen destination, not far from the M6, guaranteed fine views and a town that just happened to be crammed with pubs, 2 brewery taps and a brewery.
We were actually stopping in a very fine barn conversion in nearby Threkheld which you can walk to and back to via the old railway line or a very regular bus service. The village itself, has two pubs a yard of ale apart (well about 10 lined up end to end) they have recently come under joint ownership and do offer a choice of drinking experiences between them.
Horse and Farrier is probably the ‘premier’ inn of this small village – a very nice tile over the front door states 1688 as the date of the building’s beginnings. Further Research suggests this was once a farm – it retains its long thin profile with a very ‘farmy’ fire range in the more ‘dining like room of this ancient pub – a Mail on Sunday Review of the pub in 2022 headlined with ‘flickering fires and labyrinth rooms’. It is a grade II listed building – but it does have a smart beer garden looking up the slopes of Blencathra and a very useful and well maintained carpark. (The Keswick to Penrith bus X5 twice an hour also handily stops in between the two village pubs)
The pubs website suggest that the farm that was prominent on the old Penrith to Keswick and Workington road was often used by travellers to water their horses and take in subsistence for themselves – the farmers realising the potential profits in hospitality turned the farm house into a coaching inn sometime during the 1800’s. Whilst the A66 now bypasses the village and visitors whiz pass both village and pub – this is till a very popular venue.
A former Jennings Pub (The Jennings Castle logo, still stands proudly at the top of the rather nice pub sign above the front and door), it is now independently owned by the Arkley family who also own the very nearby Salutation Inn in the same village. The Jennings tie is loosely retained as they appear tied to Carlsberg Marston’s beers
I did notice during my visit a number of Lake District pubs still claiming that their beers were brewed on their doorstep by Jennings in Cockermouth – despite Carlsberg having closed the brewery in October 2022 and what’s left of the Jennings portfolio now being brewed in Burton on Trent – it’s a similar pattern with Wainwright beers as well of course – once of Thwaites now brewed by Carslberg – its heritage was never in the Lakes (Thwaites very much a Lancastrian institution with its main brewery in Blackburn and their take over of the Mitchells brewery of Lancaster in 1999)- a version of wainwright appears to be a fixture on virtually every Lake District pub – I do wonder how many people know it is liley to have been brewed in Wolverhampton these days (although the Banks Brewery is also under notice of closure)
Back to the Horse and Farrier – this is a very smart pub with rooms which does go big on food and therefore the drinker will often be limited to the couple of high tables immediately in front of the bar – this is a dark and atmospheric pub especially on my first visit when the whole village was suffering a power cut on late December afternoon – so candle light and hand pulled beers were the order of the day – bizarrely payment could only be taken by card as whilst the tills weren’t working the battery fed bank card reader was very much still alive.
During our visits to the pub there was a choice of 4 real ales – these remained over the same over the Christmas week and having sampled all of them the visit was a general ‘OK’ – nothing to blow you away but they were well kept and well served – my choice was the house beer - Sharp Edge a 3.6% smooth bitter brewed by Marstons, - though its untapped record suggests it may morph into different styles – Zesty Pale ale and even a brett version? are listed on UT , The other choices on offer whilst we were there included Tirril Dungeon Ghyll Stout, Wainwrights and
A couple of pub themes were also emerging – pubs claiming a link to John Peel (The hunter nor Radio 1 DJ) and showcasing sketches of pubs and their regulars by local artists John Wilkinson (Wilkes) who, appears to have managed to marry is love of pubs and a pint with his artistic talents.
D'ye ken John Peel?" – which translates to "Do you know John Peel?" – is a famous northern hunting song written around 1824 by John Woodward Graves in celebration of his friend John Peele (1776–1854), a renowned fox hunter from the Lakes – difficult to find why he develop such fame – beyond the songs Wiki suggest that at least three pubs in the North West are named after some of his hunting hounds.
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| Threkfield - 1 Village 2 pubs |
Back to the pubs – literally across the road from the H and F is their sister pub the Salutation – this was either closed or very quiet during our week in the village, whilst it is great t to see the two pubs coexisting it must be a challenge keeping both going – the Salutation or Sally is the older sister of the tow pubs, with a date of 1664 registered as it starting date as a coaching inn. This is more open plan and feels more of a drinking/locals pubs though does offer a range of food options and es pushing its takeaway service. Recently refurbished there is a large central room with a few nooks and crannies, open fire and then a conservatory style dining area. Looks to have a similar tie to Carlsberg Marston’s – whilst we were there they hade Wainwrights Gold and Wainwrights Amber available, Sharps Atlantic and the H&F’s Sharp Edge also appear to be regulars from their Untapped record. Again it was in good form though did need to ask the barmen to top up the pints we ordered.
Our first visit to a true Keswick boozer was to be on its outskirts, The Pheasant – based on the very northern edge of Keswick and just off the A66 roundabout, The Pheasant is a typical Lake district boozer – long and thin, white, retaining its Jennings legacy. Now independently owned but with a ties to Carlsberg Marstons (this will become bit of a theme – the pubs website still claims that it features Jennings Ales brewed only 12 miles away – see below).
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| The Pheasant Inn - Keswick |
We had booked for s Sunday lunch and was glad we had reserved as the pub was very busy during our visit, parking can be a bit of an issue – only available on road – frustratingly the café over the road has quite a large car park which was very empty throughout our time at the Pheasant you would have hoped there could have been some agreement between them. I can report that the food was very good especially, the Yorkshire puddings and beer was Ok – like many Carslberg Marston’s pubs they had their own in house Ale – Pheasant Ale a Pale Ale of 4.2% brewed by Marston’s (though I have been unable to find exactly where) – Wainwrights, Courage Directors and Hobgoblin were the other can I label macro’ offer – for such a good little boozer pity that couldn’t have at least one real Lake District brew on – especially as there is a very good brewery in the town.
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| Nice and cosy in the Pheasant |
We choose a cracking December day for a trip into Keswick, a quick wander around Derwent Water wetted our appetite for some seasonal beers
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| Blue skies over Derwent Water |
We started our town crawl in The Wainwright, which is strategically on the route back up from Derwent Water, along Lake Road, which is good for resting tired legs but makes it one of Keswick's busiest pubs.
A large sign outside also advertises that they do offer a 10% CAMRA discount which may also account for its regular slot in that organisation’s annual guide. Formerly the Four in Hand, it was reopened and renamed in 2015 and regularly offer up to 8 cask real ales. An L shaped bar serves what is What Pub refer to as a ‘walkers pub’ – its fairly open plan and a youthful team of staff to seem to push out a lot of drinks and food very efficiently. My choice, on this visit was a Theakston Summit – I must have been inspired by the Alfred Wainwright references that adorn the walls of the pub – don’t often see this in the Midlands and it is a thoroughly acceptable pale ale which apparently is brewed to be served extra chilled? Prices were near £5 a pint in here so the CAMRA discount was used and welcome.
A quick hop across town – passed the seemingly never-ending que outside Old Keswickian Fish and Chip Shop – they must be good- and made a be line for Packhorse Court, this is a newish shopping/hospitality mini quarter – The Pack Horse Inn, a solid traditional Robinsons House provides the name and one side of this rather smart courtyard which is a little gem comprising of a Cheese shop, wine shop, Brewery Tap and a craft bar.
The most recent addition to the court’s menagerie is the Crooked River Brewery Tap – which opened October 2024.
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| Inside the Crooker River Tap - bit of an identikit place but nice tree! |
Their website blurb outlines their story better than I can burt again note another Jenning’s link.
We are Crooked River Brewing Co; a craft beer company based on the fringe of the Lake District in West Cumbria.
Our story began in 2022 when our town’s last active brewery; Jennings announced it’s closure. This loss represented over 150 years of deep historical significance and posed a threat to the integrity of our regions brewing heritage and cultural identity.
This motivated us to step up and do something to keep that heritage alive, and so, Crooked River Brewing Co was born.
Our beer is brewed at Tractor Shed Brewing in Workington thanks to the lovely team there who gave us a place to brew, sharing our vision to see greater diversity and reputation for great locally made beer.
They still do have plans to open their own brewery in Cockermouth, but for now sate that the current economic instability of the industry makes this more of a longer term goal. They currently brew three core beers; a pacific Ale, a DDH Pale and West Coast IPA alongside limited release beers, they are currently a keg only company but have done some cask collabs with Hawkshead and Gan Yam Brew Co.
The Tap has a modern scandi vibe, lots of exposed wood, trestle tables – they do offer a couple of cask lines alongside their Keg lines – prices were probably the highest for the town – I actually went for a cask beer from their ‘home’ brewery Tractor Shed Brewing (they do have a shop and sampling bar at the brewery in Workington – check their Facebook page for opening times. A new brewery for me and a beer with another interesting name – Hoo’s thi fettle, a 4% Red Ale at a reasonable £4.40 a pint (Most of their home keg beers are £6 a pint) ((Hoo’s this fettle – Cumbrian dialect for How are you today)) – brother and I also shared a half of Crooked Blackberry Crumble Sour 4.8% and £6.50 a pint, the place was pleasantly full for a late afternoon in Twixmas with couples and groups doing lots of 1/3rds – guessing the prices and lack of Macro offer will self manage the clientele.
Leaving the Packhorse Court for now, it was then a quick hop back across the main road to the much anticipated trip to the Fox Tap, home of Keswick Brewery. I have previously enjoyed their beers and had read good things about this tap.
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| The Fox Tap a great addition to the Keswick beer scene |
Dusk was upon us and the twinkling lights of what looks like a log cabins were certainly enticing and we entered to find a full and lively tap – the main action I around the bar there is another seated area – brother who had been before said it was a little cold and isolated so we muscled into the one of the high standing table next to the bar before we managed to get on the end of one of long tap style tables – appeared to be a pleasant mix of locals and visitors imbibing – pretty much the entire range of beers was available and they were doing planks so we kicked off with a half of each of the six casks before settling on a pint each of our favourites – mine was the Fox pale from the following choice which handily was lined up lightest to darkest across the bar
Nelson Sauvin – 3.4% part of their Hop series very light
Keswick Gold – 3.6% appeared to be one of their best sellers – a golden bitter
Thirst Christmas – a 3.7% seasonal mild
Thirst Noel – seasonal 6% winter warmer
Fox Pale – 4% English Pale
Fox Dark – 4% Dark Mild
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| A fine offer in the Fox Tap |
All were on fine form and there was a very convivial atmosphere – though guessing it could get a little cramped if larger groups frequented there is a substantial outdoor seating area which will be great in warmer month
The brewery owned by Sue Jefferson, began brewing in 2006 using a 10-barrel plant on the site of a brewery that closed in 1897. The brewery is set up to be environmentally-friendly using sheeps wool insulation, and reducing its environmental impact, the wool from local herdwick sheep is used to insulte the thanks the tanks.
There is limited information on the original Old Brewery. Records show that an Old Brewery Co Ltd was set up and registered in September 1889 to acquire the business of Henry John Allinson. The same brewery was put up for auction 25th June 1896 along with 4 tied public houses. There appears no record from this sale but we do know the brewery went into liquidation November 1896 and was dissolved July 1907.
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We couldn't decide - so ordered all 6 Keswick Brewery beers
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One of Keswick’s local guest houses, Dalegarth House that also produce a very informative blog gave the following on the development of Keswick brewery
Just as some of Jennings production was moving to the midlands, The Keswick Brewing Company were securing premises in the town to start production the following year. By coincidence, the premises they took over used to be a brewery back in the 1800’s. The first of their beers ‘Thirst Run’, a 4.2% golden pale ale was launched at the Dog & Gun pub and at the Keswick Beer Festival and was an instant hit. |
As time was getting on – we reluctantly relinquished our seats and headed back onto the main strip – keen to sample one of Keswick more traditional boozers that litter the area around the Moot hall - the choice is quite phenomenal for a town of this size and again is a result of the tourist pound. Running North to South down the main shopping square of the town – probably a distance of ¼ of a mile are the following establishments
The George Hotel – one of the oldest pubs in Keswick – Marstons Pub
The Royal Oak – traditional coaching inn part of the Daniel Thwaites estate
The Pack Horse - Robinson’s
Lake Road Inn – Robinsons family type pub
The Dog and Gun – Green King traditional town boozer recently refurbished
Inn on the Square - formerly the Queens – Café style back bar of hotel
The Golden Lion – Green King town centre pub
The Kings Arms – family run former coaching Inn Casque Mark up to 5 ales, additional sports bar in Courtyard
Oddfellows Arms – Another Marstons pub
The Skiddaw Hotel - hotel bar open to non-residents food orientated – large conservatory area straight onto square
The Bank tavern – old town boozer with cask - Cumberland Taverns group
Ye Olde Golden Lion - bit of a mystery this one and a must check when I next visit - comes up on maps close to the back of the Skiddaw but all google searches take you to the Golden Lion in the town’s central square - if any does know if it does exist or is a ghost pub do let me know.
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A festive looking Keswick town centre with a pub every 50 yards
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Our central pub of choice was one I had visited before - famous for its Goulash and weekly Pub quiz - both of which I can highly recommend. The Dog and Gun now in the Greene King fold has had a presence on the edge of Keswick's town centre since 1807.
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| A festive offer in the Dog and Gun - sadly no time for Goulash tonight |
The Goulash link is thanks to a former Hungarian landlady - it became so popular that the dish and recipe have been continued by all subsequent owners. It was rammed and full of Cumbrians and one or two tourists full of festive spirit - despite its GK badge there was an interesting beer offer - we launched into the Theakston Legendary Beerd a 4.7% Winter Ale, which was was a new tick for us.
The Dalegarth guest house blurb mentioned above also gives a nice intro to our last beer of the night, back into Packhorse Court and………
The Crafty Baa in Keswick is one of our favourites for a few drinks with friends. Quirky doesn’t even start to describe the decor, with a skeleton riding a bike on the ceiling, kitchenware, board games and just about everything else you can think of decorating the walls & ceilings. Decor isn’t the only thing there is plenty of though. You’ll find a vast ‘beer menu’ with a choice of 50-60 beers, lagers & ciders, some on draft and some in bottles and cans.
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| On to the Crafty Baa - it had been a long night |
On our visit to the Crafty Baa (back in the afore mentioned yard behind the Robinsons pub) they were offering a flight of any 3 ⅓ pints for £5:50 - being from Yorkshire we had three of the strongest 3 beers available to feel like we were getting value for money - it was pretty full of people and dogs many who had been in the Fox tap earlier.
A must visit, if you are in Keswick is the town’s Wetherspoons – just off the bottom of the main shopping street and handily next to the central car park – The Chief Justice of the Common Pleas demands your attention and not just for the name. If you enter from the main door on the snaking main road through the town centres, it may feel just like most Spoons but venture deeper or go via the rear door from the car park and you will be in for a surprise – This was formerly the town’s Police station and know court (was still in use as late as 2000) and only became a pub in 2014. Unlike most spoons refurbs they have internally left a lot of the original features in, so you can sit an drink in the original jury rows and even eat your cut price breakfast in one of the cells – certainly another quirky Keswick experience.
Apparently, the name Chief Justice of the Common Pleas, isn’t just linked to the building’s former function as I had assumed – its much more complex – the story goes that when they were re building the Police station and court in 1901 – there was an existing building on the site they came across papers and deeds which showed that this site had actually been used as the town’s workhouse in the 17th Century, the papers uncovered stated that workhouse had been founded and paid for by local grandee Sir John Bankes around 1600. Sir John was an eminent lawyer and judge, he was appointed England’s Attorney General in 1635 and then Chief Justice of the Common Pleas in 1640, one of the highest judicial offices in England
(The Attorney General is chief legal adviser to the Crown and the highest ranking of the country’s Law Officers. Sir John was Chief Justice to Charles the 1st during the English Civil war and whilst he was from a Keswick family, his family set was actually Corfe Castle in Dorset)
Workhouses or poor houses developed after the Black Death in England (1348-1362), they were institutions where those unable to support themselves financially were offered accommodation and employment. Most were employed on tasks such as breaking stones, crushing bones to produce fertiliser, or picking apart old rope to produce oakum which was used in caulking ships.
The pub is very popular – always been full to the rafters when I’ve visited – a long bar with normally a range of cask also – seems to be a regular outlet for Jaipur – for such a touristy town – its provably falls in the mid band of spoons pricing with pints around £2.90 and a trad breakfast (My usual comparison) £5.89. Interestingly we on our way home back to Staffordshire we called in the Spoons at nearby Penrith – the Dog Beck – here cask pints were £1:69 and breakfast £3:14 quite a difference despite being only 16 miles apart.
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| A pint in the Dock - Keswick's rather special Spoons |
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All in all Keswick is a real beery destination with a really broad drinking scene pretty much something for every one - it’s a shame many of the pubs boast about local ale but actually serve stuff brewed in Burton and for now Wolverhampton but there are local breweries that seem to be doing Ok. We are having a serious look at the much heralded Keswick Beer Festival in the summer and will be looking to get back as soon as possible.
